Sauteed Greens

Wee Little Fishies



Eewww!"

Like most Americans, that has long been my standard reaction to sardines. They're too salty and too fishy (supposedly) for most American palates. And, in fact, straight up out of a jar or can they usually are very salty and fishy.

But one day I was at the grocery buying ingredients for making tomato sauce when, out of the blue, it occurred to me to add a bit of anchovy paste to the sauce. So I bought some and added about a tablespoon to the sauce. Marvelous.

I couldn't actually taste the anchovy but it added richness and depth to the sauce. I was quite proud of my "secret ingredient" until I discovered it's an old Italian trick. Ah well. At any rate, anchovy paste became a staple in my refrigerator.

This past winter broccoli rabe showed up for the first time (at least that I'd noticed) in the supermarket so I bought some. I found a recipe that called for blanching it and then sautéing it in olive oil with garlic and minced anchovy. Delicious.

Since then, this method has become one of my standard recipes for fixing all sorts of greens vegetables from beans to kale. And often, I'll add a bit of pancetta to the mixture.

Sauteed Greens with Anchovies

2 c blanched greens*
2 tbsps olive oil
3 ea anchovy filets -- rinsed and minced
1 oz pancetta -- diced
2 ea cloves garlic -- sliced

Heat oil in a skillet over medium low heat. Add pancetta and and cook until it begins to brown. Add garlic and anchovy and continue cooking until garlic is fragrant. Increase heat to medium high and add greens. Cook, tossing frequently, until hot. Serves 4.

*Broccoli rabe, broccolini, chard, kale, mustard greens, spinach…

Although a bit more pronounced than in the tomato sauce, the anchovy is still very much a background flavor and most folks don't notice it.