Sunday, May 07, 2006

Muffaletta

Interesting

Muffaletta

I'd never been in a sex shop before. It was… interesting. The fur-covered handcuffs were interesting. The leather collars were interesting. The costumes were interesting, And the, well… It was all, uhmm, interesting. According to Susanne and Judith, who had insisted that Michael and I accompany them into the store, we men were blushing like adolescents caught with a Playboy. The ladies, on the other hand, were merely fascinated.

It was about 11:00 o'clock on a bright, clear October morning -- neither cold nor warm. The streets were wet from rain the night before, and still strewn with trash. Halloween was coming up and although

There is an art to the business of making sandwiches which is given to few ever to find the time to explore in depth. It is simple task but the opportunities for satisfaction are many and profound… ~ Douglas Adams

that holiday isn't quite the bacchanalia of Mardi Gras, New Orleans still takes it seriously -- in a manner of speaking. We were wandering the streets of the French quarter on our way to Jackson Square. The four of us had a culinary goal and it wasn't the Café Du Monde and beignets.

On this morning the four of us had our sights set on the Central Street Grocery and muffalettas. This is an extraordinary sandwich that, while not as famous outside of New Orleans as the po' boy, holds a place of honor within the city. Surprisingly, the muffaletta's origins are Italian, Sicilian specifically. According to gumbopages.com, "the muffuletta sandwich was invented by Signor Lupo Salvadore, who opened the now-famous little Italian market called Central Grocery on Decatur Street in the French Quarter in 1906 and created the muffuletta sandwich, named for a favored customer…"

The sandwich is distinguished by the generous use of an olive salad and is served on round loaf of bread. It's delicious, different, interesting.

Muffaletta

1 loaf bread (see below)
1 c olive mix (see below)
1/4 lb sliced ham
1/4 lb sliced mortadella
1/4 lb sliced Genoa salami
1/4 lb sliced provolone
1/4 lb sliced mozzarella

Cut bread in half horizontally. Spread half with olive mix then layer on meats and cheeses. Cover with top. (Note: Ideally the sandwich should be made an hour or more in advance and then tightly wrapped in plastic wrap to enable juices to soak bread.) Slice into quarters and serve.

Olive Mix

1 1/2 c pimento-stuffed olives
1/2 c pitted Kalamata olives
1/2 c giardiniera (Italian pickled vegetables)
1/4 c pepperoncini
1/4 c pickled onions
1 tbsp capers
1 clove garlic, large – minced
1 tbsp fresh oregano
1/4 tsp ground pepper
1 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 c olive oil

Drain all ingredients. Place all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped. Refrigerate overnight.

Mixture will keep for several months sealed in a glass jar in the refrigerator.

Muffaletta Bread
(adapted from CD Kitchen)

4 1/2 c all-purpose flour
1 1/2 c water
1 tbsp kosher salt
1 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp rapid-rise yeast

Using the dough hook, combine 4 cups flour, water, salt, sugar, olive oil, and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer -- scraping down sides as needed -- at low speed until blended. Add additional flour if needed, but dough should be a bit sticky. Increase speed to medium and knead for eight minutes.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured board and form into a ball.

Clean and dry mixing bowl and spray lightly with non-stick cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, seam-side down, and spray top lightly with oil. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours.

Turn dough out onto the floured board and knead for 2 minutes. Divide in two, and form into balls. Let dough rest for 15 minutes then flatten out into discs 7 - 8 inches in diameter. Place each disc on a baking sheet, dock with a fork, and cover with plastic sprayed with oil. Allow to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours.

Preheat oven to 425F.

Bake each loaf for 20 to 25 minutes until well-browned. Cool completely before slicing.

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12 Comments:

Anonymous Beth Donovan said...

This is my favorite sandwich ever! Whenever I go to New Orleans (for work about 3 times a year), I look forward to indulging in the greatest sandwich on earth - and now, thanks to you, I can make it myself!!!!

5/13/2006 09:56:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Beth,
It's defintely good eats. And the olive mix keeps forever.

5/14/2006 10:41:00 AM  
Blogger kirk said...

I live a small town in Arkansas, I had a muffaletta at a local restaurant that was recommended by a friend from Louisiana, and it was good! Having visited New Orleans numerous times gorging myself on its fine cuisine I was skeptical at best, the only problem was we live in a dry county and it does not taste the same without beer. I found your website made the sandwich, ate it with a beer and I was back in New Orleans. Thank you so much. Kirk Morphew, Cabot Arkansas

10/14/2006 04:53:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Kirk,
> I found your website made the sandwich, ate it with a beer and I was back in New Orleans.

I can't imagine a finer compliment. Thank you.

10/14/2006 05:38:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Did Central Grocer's go down in hurricane Katrina?...Made your recipe and both my husband and neighbor have eaten at Central Grocers and said your olive spread was even BETTER than theirs!! ...What a compliment!!!

I will continue to make it and keep it in a mason jar in the fridge!!!

Candi

1/02/2007 05:53:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Anon,
Central St Grocery is fine. A friend brought me a quarter muffaletta a month ago -- and a jar of the olive salad. I agree with you. My recipe, although very similar to theirs, is better. the lemon makes it a tad more tart, the capers add additional piqancy, and the Kalamata olive give the olive taste more depth.

1/02/2007 06:37:00 PM  
Anonymous Kate said...

Thanks for tossing that link my way - I'd actually used your list of cold cuts when I was at the store and the muffaletta turned out very tasty. Can't wait to try olive mix!

1/24/2007 08:21:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Kate,
I had a chance in December to directly compare my recipe for olive mix with Central Street Grocery's -- mine's better.{g}

1/24/2007 08:32:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Wow, I have eaten Central Grocery muffs many times. Also, I have made muffs from Boscoli's olive salad many times. This recipe does NOT taste "sort of like professionally made olive salad." It tastes EXACTLY like that made by the "professionals." It is fantastic; I've personally never had better.

1/25/2010 09:52:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Anon,
Thanks. Someday I'd like to do a genuine sisde-by-side comparison of the sandwiches (for one thing I'd like to see how my bread compares), but it's still an awesome sandwich.

1/25/2010 10:01:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I look for recipes that look mature. Sensible short cuts, easy measures. No cutting taste though. This is one of those - but it has a bonus. It's better than the original recipe!

This recipe replaces mine given to me by a friend from NOLA who worked at a market that sold such sandwiches. His was fabulous, but this is better. The lemon juice brings out the flavor as it does in tabooli and other salads.

You owe it to yourself to make this often.

I recommend a fresh baked sesame seeded water based with a bit of olive oil type of bread with this. Either in rolls or roll out in a square or rectangle."

Karen

2/01/2010 02:03:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Karen,
Thanks. And I think you hit it on the head. The lemon juice adds a brightness most of the olive salads lack.

2/01/2010 03:59:00 PM  

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