Sunday, June 04, 2006

Whole Wheat Buns

Just Being Thorough

Hamburger Buns

So what if I’m a little bit obsessive? Alright, obsessive and compulsive. But I’m not anal. Or, at any rate, I’m not obsessively and compulsively anal. Grinding my own pork and baking my own buns merely reflects a very reasonable desire for well-prepared food. After all, it’s not as though I made my own bacon -- at least this time.

I had an urge for a pork burger, which meant I needed a bun. I don’t have anything against ordinary, store-bought buns, but having formulated an idea for what I hoped would be an exceptional burger, something more seemed to be called for. So I spent a couple of hours over a couple of evenings looking at recipes and thinking about what sort of bun would be best. That's not compulsive. It's just being thorough.

Right off the bat I knew the bun should be partially whole wheat. Partially whole wheat because I wanted the nuttiness but

When you get to fifty-two food becomes more important than sex. ~ Prue Leith

I didn't want a heavy bun and that meant I needed white flour too. Then it occurred to me black pepper would be a nice pairing to the whole wheat as a backdrop for the pork. But something else seemed called for. I pulled open my spice drawer and stood staring at the jars until the garlic whispered, "me! Me!" Of course the garlic didn’t really whisper. It spoke in a very matter of fact tone as garlic always does,.

My first effort was too heavy. The flavor was great, but the buns were too dense. So I made another batch. This is not obsessive. As I said, I was just being thorough. This time I used less flour producing a moister dough and the result was a lighter and more airy bun. Still substantial, but not overly so.

And the only reason I made the mayonnaise was because I was out of Hellman's. It's not as though I made the mustard too -- at least this time.

Black Pepper & Garlic Buns

1 tbsp granulated sugar
2 tsp instant yeast
3/4 tsp ground black pepper
1/4 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp butter -- melted
1 c white whole wheat flour
2 - 2 1/2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 c warm water
1 c warm milk
1 ea egg

In the bowl of a stand mixer using the paddle attachment, mix together the sugar, yeast, pepper, garlic powder, whole wheat flour, and 2 cups of all purpose flour. Add salt and mix in.

Mix in milk, water, and butter at low speed. Switch to dough hook and finish blending. The dough should be moist and sticky, add just enough additional flour, a tablespoon at a time, to have dough clear the sides of the bowl. Increase speed to medium and knead for eight minutes.

Scoop dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead lightly a few times then form into a ball. Place the dough in a bowl sprayed with cooking oil, spritz top with oil, and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to rise until doubled in bulk – about 1 hour.

Gently deflate dough, scoop onto a lightly floured surface, and fold a few times. Shape into a roll about 12 inches long, cover with plastic, and allow to relax for about five minutes. Divide roll into 8 equal pieces – this is best done by cutting roll in half, each half in half, and then each quarter in half.

Shape each dough segment into a ball by rolling between your cupped palm and the work surface. Flatten each ball into a disk about 4 inches in diameter and arrange on parchment on a baking sheet. Lightly spritz tops with oil and cover with plastic. Allow to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour. In the meantime, heat oven to 400F and place rack in center position.

Whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon of water in a small bowl. Brush tops of buns with egg wash and baked for 15 minutes. Rotate rack front to back and continue baking 5 to 8 minutes until golden brown.

Allow buns to cool before slicing.

Note: The dough will smell strongly of garlic when you make it but will tone down to a reasonable level during baking.

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15 Comments:

Blogger s'kat said...

Quality is a matter of choice, dude, and you've got quality-control in scads!

6/05/2006 11:24:00 AM  
Blogger doodles said...

nothing, nothing at all wrong with obsseive compulsion when it comes to the food we eat. Check this out I just posted.http://pbetouffee.blogspot.com/2006/06/grill-of-my-dreams-from-doodles_04.html
I do not make breads wish I did but I don't. I salute you for all your efforts.

6/05/2006 07:59:00 PM  
Blogger Emma said...

Ha ha! Obsessive compulsive anality is just a state of mind! I know exactly what you mean!

6/06/2006 04:45:00 AM  
Anonymous sher said...

This is what I know: When a person does what your're doing...the food tastes fabulous! I've been meaning to make buns as well. Now you've convinced to get on the ball and carry through.

6/06/2006 03:45:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

S'kat,
I would definitely say they were quality buns.

Doodles,
Using brisket makes sense to me.

Emma,
Or lack of mind.

Sher,
Try making the buns, whether this recipe or another, they take burgers to a new place.

6/06/2006 03:59:00 PM  
Anonymous Genie said...

These sound awesome...totally worth the effort. Yum!

Genie
The Inadvertent Gardener

6/06/2006 08:24:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Genie,
Absolutely.

6/07/2006 08:44:00 AM  
Blogger cookiecrumb said...

Ha ha! Let me know when you forage your own wild mustard seeds for your mustard.
Me, I'm threshing wild amaranth seeds today for grain. Might be inedible, but -- hay, I'm rectal-linear.

6/07/2006 11:49:00 AM  
Blogger Marianne said...

Kevin--

I think I'm going to make these rolls, but in a hoagie-style shape for some grilled Italian sausages. Are they best (like most breads) the day you are going to eat them, or could I make them a day ahead? I have the time to make them today but we wouldn't eat them until tomorrow.

6/08/2006 10:52:00 AM  
Blogger ejm said...

I'm not quite as compulsive as you are but if we ran out of mustard, I'd HAVE to make my own. It's just so much better! (If we ran out of Hellmann's, I'd race out to the store to buy some rather than make my own mayonnaise - even though mayonnaise from scratch is probably better)

What a cool idea to put black pepper and garlic into the buns. I'm not convinced about the garlic powder - it's so often bitter tasting. But I wonder how it would be to put actual garlic into the dough.

I'm guessing that you could use a whole lot less yeast as well. When I make sandwich bread (part wholewheat, part allpurpose unbleached flour) I use 2 tsp of active dry yeast for a total of about 8 cups of flour.

-Elizabeth

6/14/2006 06:18:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Elizabeth,
I know what you mean about garlic powser, but I get it from Penzeys (they call it "granulated" garlic) and it's not bad -- and easier to distribute evenly through the bread.

As for yeast, the less you use the longer it takes. Sometimes you want that (the flavor is usually better) and sometimes you just don't want to wait.

6/14/2006 07:07:00 PM  
Blogger ejm said...

Ah, and I know what you mean about not wanting to wait. But I do love the nuttier flavour that results from a slower rise.

I'm not sure what kind of garlic powder we have (as far as I know there is no Penzeys here in Toronto) but I believe it is the "granulated" kind.

But I do like the idea of adding some to the buns and next time I make hamburger buns, I'll add a little to see how it goes.

-Elizabeth

6/20/2006 04:39:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Elizabeth,

Penzeys Spices: http://www.penzeys.com/cgi-bin/penzeys/shophome.html

6/20/2006 04:44:00 PM  
Anonymous adda said...

You're buns sound splendiferous but I have one problem with them... I was looking to be lazy and find someone who had already done part of the trial and error for me of using a still warm from being fresh ground whole wheat rather than "all-purpose" or store version of "whole wheat". (I love the nutty flavor mix of hard red and hard white.) Would you happen to have a tip on that angle? Never thought of the black pepper! You're brillant! ..but I'll try fresh roasted chopped garlic I think. BTW, when you make your mustard... remember the tumeric, that's what gives the color. :)

7/15/2006 11:25:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Adda,
All the girls say that.

I've never used freshly ground wheat so I can't offer any thoughts on that. As for the garlic, I wouldn't roast it. Instead I'd use raw garlic, very finely minced -- it will be roasted by the time the bread is done. And I'll remember the tumeric.

7/15/2006 11:43:00 AM  

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