Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Carbonnade

Beer-Braised Belgian Brisket

Fall Foliage

According to The Food Encyclopedia, carbonnade is:

"a French method of braising meat, originally referring to meats grilled over charcoal."
However, these days carbonnade most frequently refers to a Flemish beef dish from Belgium braised in beer. However, the name probably originated with the Spanish word, carbonada, meaning "broiled meat." You can't get much more cross-cultural than that.

Unless you happen to make it in the Southeastern US, that is.

The Belgians, and in particular the Trappist monks, are famous for their beers. And so it's no wonder that it's a common cooking ingredient. For instance, there's a popular recipe for veal chops with chervil that uses beer and there's Poulet a la Biere.

For a braise, such as Carbonnade, you need a tough, fatty piece of meat. Tough so it can stand up to the long cooking time, and fatty so that the fat and connective tissue prevent the creation of something like shoe leather. Chuck roast is a popular and excellent choice for braising, but so is brisket — and I just happened to have one when a cold snap came through last week.

Carbonnade
Carbonnade
3 lb beef brisket — trimmed of external fat
salt and pepper to taste
3 oz salt pork cut into batons
3 ea onions — diced
1 1/2 btl beer
1 c beef stock
4 - 6 ea boiling potatoes (2" diameter) — quartered
3 - 4 ea carrots — peeled and cut into 3/4" lengths
1 tbsp juniper berries — crushed
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 ea bay leaf

Heat oven to 350F.

Liberally season brisket with salt and pepper. Slowly cook batons, rendering fat, in a dutch oven until crisp. Drain on a paper towel, dice, and reserve.

Brown brisket on all sides in fat, then reserve on a plate.

Sauté onions over medium heat until lightly browned. Add beer and deglaze pot.

Return brisket to pot along with beef stock, juniper berries, bay leaf, bacon, and tomato paste. Cover and place in middle of oven. Cook one hour, then turn over brisket. Cook, covered, for another hour. Turn brisket over again, add carrots and potatoes, and add a bit of water if needed — the vegetables should be submerged. Cook 45 minutes longer or until potatoes are tender.
Note: The photo of the fall colors was taken looking straight out from my living room balcony.

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15 Comments:

Anonymous Genie said...

Sounds delicious, Kevin. Would you ever consider marinating the brisket before you use it in the carbonnade? Or is it flavorful enough this way without any further prep?

Genie
The Inadvertent Gardener

10/31/2006 01:12:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Genie,
No need. Over a three hour cooking period any flavors in the meat are going to leach out into the cooking broth and any flavors in the cooking broth are going to soak into the meat.

10/31/2006 01:21:00 PM  
Blogger drbiggles said...

Hey Kevin,

Stunning! Brisket is a wonderful, wonder thing.

I did something similar, a few less ingredients. I used my favorite Danish Smoked Viking Sea Salt on the brisket. The salt is really smoked by some crazy Scandinavian and not made using liquid smoke. The flavors it lends is fricken insane. Good with meat.

Biggles

10/31/2006 04:16:00 PM  
Anonymous aria said...

mmmm, brisket looks awesome! reminds me of passovah!! :)

11/01/2006 08:20:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Doc,
Sadly this wasn't a good brisket, it needed all the help it could get.

Aria,
Odd, it didn't remind me of passover. But, then, I'm not jewish.{g}

11/01/2006 09:40:00 PM  
Anonymous Midge said...

Hi, Kevin.

Man, but that looks good!

Any preference as to the sort of beer you used? One cookbook I have here says lager's best, but another says pilsner's the way to go.

11/02/2006 01:26:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Midge,
I used a medium-dark lager.

11/02/2006 10:44:00 AM  
Blogger s'kat said...

It turned cool here today, and this looks just my speed. Too bad I don't have several hours to whip this up tonight!

Oh- nice view, dude!

11/02/2006 02:08:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

S'kat,
Ain't it though? It made me love this place all over again.

11/02/2006 02:44:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This post has been removed by a blog administrator.

11/02/2006 05:41:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

that looks great, I can see why it was your pick for the month. I'll have to try it.

1/14/2007 06:10:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

glad I tagged this, sounds like just what I was looking for to make tonight...if you happen to be reading this a.m., do you use fresh juniper berries? I'm not familiar with them. Thanks.

2/03/2007 07:01:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

CookingChat,
I use dried juniper berries. I get them at the local equivalent of Whole Foods.

2/03/2007 09:27:00 AM  
Blogger cookingchat said...

thanks for the recipe and the last minute tip! made this Saturday, and it was just the sort of hearty dish the onset of cold weather called for. It's actually provided us with 4 suppers. We ran out of beef by last night but there was a good amount of broth & some veggies. Tossed it with penne and some pinto beans, a bit of cheddar. A somewhat unusual combo but it worked.

2/06/2007 08:38:00 PM  
Blogger paisano said...

CookingChat,
That's the way to do it.

2/06/2007 10:17:00 PM  

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