Arrosto di Maiale Al Latte
Simple, Strange, Delicious

Sometimes cooking and eating are a matter of faith. Or, perhaps more accurately, a calculated risk. I had a three pound pork loin in my freezer that I needed to do something with but I wanted something different and I was clueless. So I sent an e-mail to my friend Doc Biggles at Meathenge and asked him for suggestions. And he came back with a suggestion for pork braised in milk — Arrosto di Maiale Al Latte, which he published back in February of 2006.
Doc got the recipe from Kate at Accidental Hedonist who posted the recipe a few days earlier. Actually, that's what I figured Doc would suggest because he'd just tried a variation using pork chops.
Perhaps it's just me, but braising pork in milk seemed like a strange idea to me. It is also such a simple recipe that (pork, milk, garlic, and salt and pepper) that I wondered how much flavor it would have. But Doc has never steered me wrong, and I did want something new so I decided to give it a shot. However, I decided to follow Kate's original recipe rather than Doc's posting because I didn't want to incorporate any variations Doc may made on this first trial. — which doesn’t mean I followed Kate's recipe exactly.
I varied the cooking technique as well. Kate cooked it on the stove top, but my experience is that braising works best in the oven. In the oven, particularly if you have a good heavy cast iron dutch oven like my Le Crueset. Using the oven and cast iron the braise is cooked simultaneously from all sides instead of just from the bottom. This results in more even cooking and produces a superior result.
Lastly, instead of whisking the liquid at the end of the cooking process, I used my immersion blender, which produced a smooth, thick sauce with the garlic evenly distributed throughout.
I've got some chops in the freezer and may try Doc's most recent variation in the near future — the onions sound like a good idea.
Sometimes cooking and eating are a matter of faith. Or, perhaps more accurately, a calculated risk. I had a three pound pork loin in my freezer that I needed to do something with but I wanted something different and I was clueless. So I sent an e-mail to my friend Doc Biggles at Meathenge and asked him for suggestions. And he came back with a suggestion for pork braised in milk — Arrosto di Maiale Al Latte, which he published back in February of 2006.
Doc got the recipe from Kate at Accidental Hedonist who posted the recipe a few days earlier. Actually, that's what I figured Doc would suggest because he'd just tried a variation using pork chops.
Perhaps it's just me, but braising pork in milk seemed like a strange idea to me. It is also such a simple recipe that (pork, milk, garlic, and salt and pepper) that I wondered how much flavor it would have. But Doc has never steered me wrong, and I did want something new so I decided to give it a shot. However, I decided to follow Kate's original recipe rather than Doc's posting because I didn't want to incorporate any variations Doc may made on this first trial. — which doesn’t mean I followed Kate's recipe exactly.
I look upon it that he who does not mind his belly will hardly mind anything else. ~ Samuel Johnson
Kate browned her roast in butter before braising, however at medium-high heat I knew the butter would burn during browning, so instead, I elected to brown the roast in bacon grease. I think this was consistent with the recipe while using something like olive oil wouldn't have been.I varied the cooking technique as well. Kate cooked it on the stove top, but my experience is that braising works best in the oven. In the oven, particularly if you have a good heavy cast iron dutch oven like my Le Crueset. Using the oven and cast iron the braise is cooked simultaneously from all sides instead of just from the bottom. This results in more even cooking and produces a superior result.
Lastly, instead of whisking the liquid at the end of the cooking process, I used my immersion blender, which produced a smooth, thick sauce with the garlic evenly distributed throughout.
Arrosto di Maiale Al LatteThis is an amazingly good dish. The milk really brings out the pork flavor and, although as a rule a lean cut like pork loin isn’t a good candidate for a technique like braising, in this case although the meat shrank to about half it's original size it wasn't dry. The sauce was incredibly rich and flavorful with a nice, but not overwhelming, garlic lilt to it. If you make this, please resist the urge to add additional seasonings the first time, you should understand the baseline before you screw around with the recipe.
3 - 4 lb pork loin roast
salt and pepper
2 tbsp bacon grease
2 1/2 c whole milk (don't use anything low fat or skimmed)
5 cloves garlic — peeled
Heat oven to 325F.
Melt bacon grease in a large dutch oven over medium-high heat. Generously season pork with salt and pepper, then brown on all sides in the dutch oven. Pour out the fat in the bottom of the pot, add the milk and garlic, cover, and place in the middle of the oven.
Cook for one hour. turn roast over and cook another hour. Turn roast over again and cook 30 minutes more. Remove from oven and set roast on a plate, covered with foil, and allow to rest 10 - 15 minutes. Blend milk sauce using a blender and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 4 -6.
I've got some chops in the freezer and may try Doc's most recent variation in the near future — the onions sound like a good idea.
Technorati: Food | recipe | main dish | meat | pork | pork loin | italian | braise
Labels: pork







42 Comments:
Yeah !! You go!! It is truly, a wonderful thing.
You're right about not adding anything. It's so simple and easy, it's tough not to want to start adding this and that. In fact, it took everything I had the first time to not screw it up.
The addition of the onions for the chops worked out quite nicely. They got all sweet and yummy, perfection.
Hey, I need an immersion blender. I think I'll go git me one.
Biggles
Doc,
I got one because I need a substitute for a blender and food processor when I cook at client's houses, but I've fallen in love with. the food processor attachment isn't very good, but the blender and whisk attachments are awesome. Mine's a KA.
Hmmm, Immersion blender. Adding another Toy to my wish list.
Hmmm. While I've raved about an immersion blender for a long while and have done milk-braised pork for several years, I've never done it in the oven [moving to kitchen to move pot roast from stove top to oven, hmm, what's that temp you said? right 325F, okay I'm back] and it's REALLY nice to know we all get stuck some times.
Alanna,
I started doing braises in the oven about 15 years ago when a friend mentioned she made corned beef and cabbage in the oven.
I should do a post on braising.
hmmn...I have a pork loin and chops in my freezer right now. I'd be curious to try this recipe!
Veron,
Do the loin first to get a feel for it. And don't futz with the recipe by adding ingrredients. Until you taste it you have no idea how good it is until you taste it.
I used to make something like this but with those shriveled, lightly sweetish, Chinese sausages (that I can't find anywhere around here) and man was it good!
Hi Kevin - I'm new to this blog, by the way, and it is a Serious Discovery! I think oven braising helps everything to caramelize a tad more, where on top of the stove you're just doing the bottom. I've done things like pot roast both ways, but gotta agree the oven is better.
It's even better if you can get your hands on pig's milk...
...seriously.
KM,
I've heard of those sausages, but I've never had nor seen them.
Martha,
Thanks for stopping by. The oven is definitely the way to go in braising.
Anon,
I guess you need a really short stool to milk a pig.{g}
Braising is one of the things on my list of techniques to try. I was thinking about starting with lamb shanks, but this looks good too.
wow, that sounds delicious to me! i can just see how mild and savory the braising liquid would turn out. i sneak milk and cream into all sorts of unsuspecting dishes too :)
Sounds amazing. I did a stovetop milk-braised pork chops that were good, but this method sounds even better.
Sara,
Braising is a "must-know" technique for any serious cook.
Aria,
We all know how sneaky you are.{g}
Kalyn,
Congrats on your award! And yeah, this is a really great recipe -- thanks to Kate for first posting it in English and Doc Biggles for passing it on.
OH! I received my KA blender last Friday, a red one!!!
You know that blade that goes in the chopper? I was putting that in to the dishwasher and just barely touched my thumb knuckle. It removed a piece of skin about the size of a pencil eraser and it bled for 2 days.
Now I know why I don't buy these fancy things, they hurt me.
Biggles
This is a wonderful way to prepare pork. I was inspired to try it for the first time by your post. Of course I had to add my touch of sauted onions, fresh sage and thyme to the milk...wow, it was wonderful. Thanks Kevin for sharing.
David,
I was also tempted to futz with the recipe, but was intrigued by its simplicity and decided, for once, to show restraint. I'm glad I did, although I think next time I will add some sliced onions.
It does sound strange at first, but I bet the milk added a tenderness to the meat that you couldn't get from another liquid.
I love how the recipe is "al latte". That's great!
Rachel,
This recipe should be in every pork-lover's file.
This is a very tasty recipe. I've made the one from the San Francisco Chronicle's cookbook a few times. But I like not to brown the meat first. Add some of the milk with unwrapped garlic (which later gets peeled and added back) and the rosemary. Sometimes I add a bay leaf. It's what's for dinner tonight.
Hockey,
Why would you not brown the meat? It seems to me that's just throwing away flavor.
I made this recipe for the first time in my contemporary cuisine course at the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago, le Cordon Bleu. It was fantastic. I've made it for New Year's Day dinner now for three years.
Sirgalantine,
Yeah, it's really extraordinary.
please reconsider "generous salt" in the recipe because some people (like me!) are far too generous and ruin their milk sauce :(
A big hit at our Christmas Dinner.
I had an 8 pound loin and a dutch oven. Your directions were great.
Due to the size I cooked the roast for 1 hour and 15 minutes on each side, then turned it a third time for another 30-40 minutes with meat thermometer in hand, while salivating of course.
This recipe is a keeper. Thanks Kevin
Maxine,
I'm glad you liked it.
Wow! Absolutely fabulous and so easy. I went out and bought myself a dutch oven just so I could try this recipe and now I can't wait to braise more meats. My husband ate half the roast on his own and the kids devoured it! Thank you for your wonderful blog!
hpmommy,
I'm so glad you all liked it. It's a favorite of mine.
Dear Seriously, Enjoyed reading your take on a classic Italian take on pork first made popular at least 20 years ago by Marcella Hazen. In true northern Italian manner, she uses no garlic, simply whole milk, salt, pepper and a butter. For me, the dish's brilliance comes from its combo of richness and lightness, along with a texture I rarely associate with lean meat of any kind. If you're not in a hurry, butter works increadibly well in producing a "slow browning".
I want to try this but I know my family likes alot of gravy. Can I just add more milk? I was thinking that adding more milk would be ok since it will be braising for a while and some of it would curdle and once I put the immersion blender in it will smoothin out. Does that sound correct or will it just be two watery?
Learning,
You can use more milk (and I'd add more garlic in that case) but as written it does produce 2 1/2 cups of sauce.
Thanks Kevin. Yeah I noticed that 2 1/2 cups of sauce but that would be just about enough for my father-in-law himself. I know not good but just want to make sure everyone gets some. So I think I'll use a total of 4 cups of milk and add a garlic clove for every 1/2 cup, so a total of 8 cloves. Hope it works out. Thanks again. Love your site.
Learning,
He must be Southern{g}. I think you've got the garlic right, but keep in mind that additional milk will water down the pork juices and fat resulting in a less savory sauce.
Hi Kevin,
Great site! This is my first time here, but I'll certainly be coming back.
Did you reduce the sauce at all by removing the lid? If not, would you recommend it?
I am guessing the garlic cloves thickened it a bit, but I am just wondering about sauce consistency.
Josh,
Thanks for stopping by.
I left the lid partially cracked (around 1/2 inch) and the milk naturally thickens during cooking, though it also separates, which is why I run it through a blender.
Hi Kevin,
Interesting recipe :) I'm going to try it tomorrow. Any suggestions on what to serve with? Potatoes? Rice?
Thank you.
Andrius,
I'd go for potatoes.
Love your blog!
This is one of our favorite recipes. We're on a budget, so I usually make it with a cheap cut of pork (4-5 lb shoulder blade roast) and then use the leftovers for several more meals. (The garlic flavor is mellow enough to not overpower other preparations.) The consistency of the pork after braising for several hours makes it perfect for Mexican-style shredded pork as well as barbecue pork sandwiches. Another favorite is to use the cubed pork in a Basque style pork stew with red bell peppers, oranges, and paprika.
Someone was asking about side dishes. We usually have this with mashed rutabagas and sauteed swiss chard.
Thanks, again, for a terrific foodie site!
Y-not,
Thanks for the comments!
HEY KEVIN
THE PORK IS IN THE OVEN AND MY KITCHEN SMELLS WONDERFUL ALREADY!! CAN'T WAIT UNTIL MY HUSBAND COMES HOME TO THIS AROMA. I'M NOT TELLING HIM HOW EASY THIS DISH IS TO PREPARE. I'LL POST YOU ON THE FINAL RESULTS IN ABOUT ANOTHER 2 PLUS HOURS.
LOVE YOUR BLOG...JUST FOUND IT.
Susan,
Oddly enough I'm serving it tonight to a chef on her way from New York to San Francisco to open a new restaurant. She and her driving companion are staying here tonight and as soon as she took me up on an offer of a place to stay I knew what to cook.
Keep an eye on this blog, I'll be posting the menu in a week or so and it should be intriguing.
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