Thursday, April 05, 2007

Mushroom Bisque

Mycophilia

Mushroom Bisque

There are foods that make you wonder how they came to be eaten. For instance, raw olives are phenomenally bitter. They have to be cured in salt for several weeks before they're edible. Who figured that out? Or how about poi? The raw taro root (a corm actually) contains needle-like structures that cause severe stomach pain. It has to be cooked to destroy the needles, but why would you think cooking something inedible would make it edible?

You can theorize that such discoveries are accidental; perhaps some olives were exposed to sea water and then found to be edible. And maybe someone tossed some taro into a pot not knowing it was supposed to make you sick — and no one got sick. But here's the food that bothers me the most: mushrooms.

One cannot think well, love well, sleep well, if one has not dined well. ~ Virginia Woolf

Many varieties are will make you sick and some will kill you. The problem is, a lot of those mushrooms we know to be safe look almost exactly like mushrooms that definitely aren't safe. So who was fool enough to keep eating them until they figured out the small differences between the safe ones and the dangerous ones?

I was pondering on this the other night. A friend of mine had sent me some dried wild mushrooms he'd picked in Oregon and I decided to take advantage of them by making mushroom bisque. I heated some chicken stock on the stove and then dumped the wild mushrooms in it to rehydrate, and as I did so I wondered how skilled my friend was at mycology. But, he's been picking mushrooms for a few years, and hasn't killed himself — yet.

Mushroom Bisque
Serves 4.

2 oz dried wild mushrooms
1 1/2 pounds assorted fresh mushrooms (button, shitake, porcini, ...) — coarsely chopped
1/2 c red wine (optional)
3 tbsp butter
2 tbsp fresh thyme
2 shallots — chopped
salt
1 1/2 c chicken stock
1 c half and half
1 tsp ground black pepper

Bring chicken stock to a boil in a small sauce pan, remove from heat, and add dried mushrooms. Steep mushrooms for 30 minutes while you prep remaining ingredients, then strain liquid through a coffee filter in a sieve to eliminate any dirt.

Place a soup pot over medium high heat and add half of the mushrooms (Note, do not oil the pan.) Sprinkle generously with sauce and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, until the mushroom have reduced by half. Add remaining mushrooms, sprinkle with salt, and add thyme and shallots. Continue cooking until the volume is again reduced to half.

Add wine and reduce to a syrup. Add butter and toss with mushrooms to melt. Add rehydrated mushrooms and stock. Bring to a vigorous simmer, then reduce heat and continue to simmer for 15 minutes. Add half and half. Puree soup using either an immersion blender or standing blender. Return to heat and warm thoroughly.

Serve with a dollop of sour cream or crèam fraîche.
Elise at Simply Recipes offers a similar recipe.

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15 Comments:

Blogger Shawna said...

I've always felt that same way about coffee, chocolate, and bread. I know that cheese and alcohol were accidental discoveries, but how do you accidentally roast the bean off a tree, grind it up, and steep it in hot water?

Oh well, beats me. :)

4/05/2007 03:41:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Shawna,
Bread is easy. Wheat is edible as a raw grain, soak it in water and it's easier to eat, grind it up and soak it in water and it's still easier. Bake it and it's easier to eat and easier to transport. Once you grind it and add water it's only a matter of time before yeast discover it -- voila, bread.

But coffee? Great example.

4/05/2007 04:09:00 PM  
Anonymous girl and dog said...

I always wondered that about cuitlacoche, the black mushroom that grows on corn. It's a Mexican delicacy but looks ghastly! Someone must have been starving to actually choose to eat a bunch of bloated black corn kernels. But I'm glad they did!

4/06/2007 10:28:00 AM  
Anonymous Shelly said...

Ha, we were just discussing this at dinner last night (over King crab legs) Who on earth looked at a crab and thought MMMMM...I bet those pointy sharp spiny legs are taaaasty!

4/06/2007 10:52:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Girl,
Another good example.

Shelly,
Lobster, too, for that matter. Although it's worth noting that prior to the 20th century lobster was something only poor people ate.

4/06/2007 11:00:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I love soups, chowders, bisques, gumbos, whatever name you call the pot with all kinds of things in a nourishing broth, I think is the ultimate comfort food, and usually good for you. This mushroom bisque looks great Kevin. I might try this with just mushrooms I can get fresh. Loving the AYIB, and of course that is the perfect accompaniment for soup, bread that is.

judyinktown

4/09/2007 01:03:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Judy,
The dried mushrooms contribute a lot of conentrated flavor, but you can certainly skip them.

4/09/2007 01:59:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Can I find those at the Fresh Market? And how costly?

judyinktown

4/09/2007 02:31:00 PM  
Anonymous Kate said...

I love the email about the origins of certain things that said "Who was the first person to look at a chicken and say 'I'm gonna eat the next thing that drops outta its butt' "

And whole shrimp? Octopus?? DURIAN!!?! How about nopales?? Sometimes I just think...somewhere someone died trying something one way; another guy saw what happened and said 'Me not do THAT...'

4/10/2007 10:02:00 AM  
Blogger s'kat said...

I agree, whomever these first people were to discover what tastes good and how to get there- hats off to 'em!

Monkfish, anyone?

4/13/2007 08:44:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

S'kat,
I thinks it's generally safe to assume most fish are safe -- whatever they look like -- but who figured out fugu?

4/13/2007 01:26:00 PM  
Blogger Cate said...

Ok, that mushroom bisque looks simply divine ... now if only I could find someone in my family that liked mushrooms. ;)

4/16/2007 10:05:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Cate,
I'm so pleased you dropped by, and if no one else likes mushrooms, then all the more for you. You're entitled to cook things you like, you know.

4/16/2007 10:47:00 PM  
Blogger neil said...

I'm amazed that some people will boil mushrooms that can make you sick in order to render them harmless, then eat them - why bother? Then again some people get their kicks eating the psychotropic varieties which have been known to cause death...

One of the really amazing food things is the ancient Mexicans figured out corn should be treated with lime in order to avoid pellagra, thus avoiding the four D's - diarrhea, dermatitis, dementia, and death.

4/16/2007 11:46:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Neil,
RE:pelagra

Great example!

4/17/2007 09:08:00 AM  

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