Friday, August 03, 2007

Shrimp & Grits

Low-country Luscious

Shrimp & Grits

The group I refer to as my "cooking buddies" has been getting together every other year since 1994 for a Cooks' Bash. The first was held in Charleston, South Carolina where I had my first sushi and, to everyone's great amusement, wasabi. I still haven't lived down The Wasabi Event.

In addition to sushi, I had the pleasure of introducing a friend from the Pacific Northwest to a Southern breakfast of eggs, grits, country ham, and biscuits. One night we had a Low Country clambake which mostly involved oysters and Frogmort Stew. The traditional cuisine is similar to Creole cooking, heavy on fish, rice, potent spices, and the Trinity of onion, celery, and bell pepper.

I had the pleasure of introducing a friend from the Pacific Northwest to a Southern breakfast of eggs, grits, country ham, and biscuits.

Shrimp plays a particularly big roll, with Charleston Receipts offering dishes such as Breakfast Shrimp, half a dozen shrimp pies, and Shrimp Stuffed in Bell Peppers. Oddly enough, the shrimp dish I think of as most typically Low Country doesn't appear: Shrimp and Grits. This causes me to wonder if, despite the dish's fame, it's a relatively recent invention.

There's a restaurant here in Knoxville, Chesapeake's, that sometimes offers a particularly good version as a special. I've been meaning to make it myself for quite awhile, but it wasn't until last week, when the local paper posted a recipe that looked good, that I finally got around to doing so. The published recipe is by Louis Osteen and he serves it at Louis's at Pawleys on Pawleys Island. I tweaked the recipe to meet my needs, but also because the amount of liquid called for seemed excessive and would have more resembled a thick shrimp soup than shrimp smothered in a sauce.

I also, completely ignored the recipe for grits because it called for quick grits, but again required too much liquid. I suspect these are typos in the recipe. Instead, I did use quick grits, but I followed the package directions to make 2 cups and added about 3 tablespoons of butter.

Shrimp for Shrimp & Grits
Adapted from the Knoxville News Sentinel.
Serves 4.


1 lb medium shrimp — peeled
3 tbsp butter
4 slices smoked bacon
2/3 c chopped onions
1/4 c chopped celery
1/4 c chopped green bell pepper
2 tsp minced garlic
1/4 tsp dried thyme or 1 sprig fresh
1 bay leaf
1/3 c white wine or vermouth
3 tbsp flour
2 c clam juice (shrimp stock is better if you have it)
2 tbsp tomato paste
1/2 c heavy cream
hot sauce to taste
salt and pepper to taste

Make the grits.

In a non stick skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook shrimp for about 2 minutes per side. Set aside, the shrimp should be slightly under-cooked.

In a large sauté pan cook the bacon until crisp over medium heat. Drain bacon but reserve grease in pan. Add onions, celery, and pepper and sau té until softened. Add garlic, thyme, and bay and cook 1 minute more. Increase heat to high, add white wine, and cook until evaporated. Reduce heat to medium and sprinkle with flour, mix thoroughly and cook, stirring frequently with a spatula for 3 minutes and scraping the bottom to prevent burning. Add clam juice and tomato paste and whisk vigorously to avoid lumps. Bring to a simmer and stir in cream. Add salt, pepper, and hot sauce to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Add shrimp and cook another 2 minutes. Serve spooned over grits.

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13 Comments:

Blogger Alanna said...

That looks like fried okra in the background? At the farmers market the other day, a girl begged for okra, "Please, Mom, please!" My eyes must have expressed the surprise I felt for her mother rolled her eyes, smiled and answered my unspoken question, "Fried okra". (And I'd beg for the shrimp and grits, given the chance ...)

8/03/2007 02:36:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Alanna,
Good eye. And yep, shrimp and grits and fried okra. Makes shiver just thinking about how good it was.{g}

8/03/2007 02:45:00 PM  
Anonymous stephen said...

I'm shocked - SHOCKED - to find quick grits permitted here...stone ground, slow-cooked, with milk or cream, is the way we always had them..ok, I'm lying since I grew up in Michigan and for most of my life I was of the Joe Pesci "What is a grit?" ilk...but then my daughter moved to the low country in Charleston and I got educated and learned to make real grits...so, what are you THINKING? Ok, the shrimp part looks PERFECT, and the fried okra too...but...[shakes head slowly, looking down]?

8/03/2007 10:12:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Stephen,
I'm so sorry to disappoint you. Losing esteem in your eyes is a bitter pill to swallow, but the truth is real grits are a pain to find, a bitch to make, expensive, and only slightly better than the quick variety in most circumstances.

I'm all in favor of the slow cooking precept, but I prefer my slow cooking be slow _and_ easy.

8/03/2007 10:47:00 PM  
Blogger Lisa said...

I can't go with you on the okra, but man does that shrimp and grits look good. A friend of mine who's from So. Carolina has been telling me about this dish for several years now; can't believe I haven't tried it yet. Your version here looks pretty fabulous.

8/04/2007 01:43:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Lisa,
Have you ever had fried okra? It's a totally different sensation -- and taste -- from any other okra preparation.

8/04/2007 02:19:00 PM  
Blogger Lisa said...

Kevin, I've not had it fried. And they do serve it like that at a fish & chicken joint near me—maybe I'll give it a go.

8/05/2007 10:19:00 AM  
Blogger kitchenmage said...

Someday you must fly north and cook southern food for me. I am willing to acknowledge that my sampling is limited but I don't get grits. Not sure I want to get okra. But I trust you so I'd try it if you cooked. At least a bite. (then I'd eat all the shrimp)

8/05/2007 08:40:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

KM,
I'd love to. Do you "get" polenta? Or is any ground corn product outside of your ken?

8/05/2007 08:58:00 PM  
Blogger Chip Ahoy said...

Last week about 3:00 am on a whim I decided to attempt to make polenta for the first time ever. I had a tubular box of cornmeal but no recipe on the back for polenta, just cornmeal mush. So I tried it. Not bad, actually -- proof to me that anything doused with butter and sprinkled liberally with salt and pepper tastes good. Not exactly the same as grits, but close.

8/06/2007 07:35:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Chip,
"Not bad, actually -- proof to me that anything doused with butter and sprinkled liberally with salt and pepper tastes good."

Include bacon and it's perfect.

8/06/2007 08:17:00 PM  
Blogger The Culinary Chase said...

Kevin, this looks yummy! Cheers!

8/08/2007 10:10:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

"Include bacon and it's perfect."

Add bacon, cheese, and a scrambled egg. Hot buttered biscuits w/muscadine jelly and breakfast is served!!!

Fried okra is the best just toss sliced okra in cornmeal and fry till crisp! I can eat it like popcorn.

7/12/2008 10:50:00 PM  

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