Squash with Maple Syrup and Horseradish

Falling



Autumn in Tennessee is supposed to be glorious. It typically starts about mid-September when the sumac and dogwoods start turning red and climaxes in mid-to-late October when the oaks, maples, and poplars turn their gorgeous shades of gold, orange, and yellow. By now the mid-day temperatures are frequently in the 70s and there's a noticeable chill in the air come morning. Not this year.

In fact, I suspect we won't even have a fall this year. It's still in the 80s every day, we've had only a single day of rain so far, and I suspect the leaves will simply give up in despondence and go from green to brown and then drop to the ground with a sigh of a promise broken. Fall is one of the two good reasons — spring being the other one — for putting up with summers (which are too hot and humid) and winters (which are just plain ugly) here. With no fall to enjoy, I might as well live in Sacramento.

With no fall to enjoy, I might as well live in Sacramento.

But, although I'm saddened by the apparent lack of a true autumn, the fruits of the season are beginning to appear. Last week I picked up a buttercup squash at the market and brought it home to sit on the kitchen table while I pondered on how to prepare it.

There are few vegetables less dependable than winter squash. It can be dry or juicy, but must be cooked and tasted to know. It can be quite sweet, and is at it's best when sweet because the sugar brings out the flavor, but must be cooked and tasted to know. It can be as bland as an Idaho potato or deeply flavored — but must be cooked and tasted to know.

I split the squash in half and scooped the seeds out. Next, I placed it on a baking sheet in 350F oven, added 1/2 inch of water to the pan, and roasted it for 45 minutes. Once cooled I scooped the flesh into a bowl and tasted it — two or three times. Here's what I did:

Mashed Buttercup Squash
Serves 4.

~3 lb buttercup squash (butternut squash would also work) — roasted
1 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground white pepper
3 tbsp butter — melted
1 tsp dried, rubbed sage
1 - 3 tbsp maple syrup (Grade B preferred)
1 - 3 tbsp grated horseradish

Mash squash with a potato-masher and taste. Add salt, pepper, butter, and sage and mix thoroughly.

Taste the mixture and add enough maple syrup to make it slightly sweet (ideally you should be able to taste the syrup if you're looking for it). Add enough horseradish to taste clearly but not make the mixture "hot."

Adjust other ingredients to your taste.

I grilled a couple of lamb chops to go along with this — a seasonal aberration because lamb is a spring/summer food. But the lamb was a delicious counterpart to the meal.

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