Friday, March 21, 2008

Review: Hawaiian Yellowtail
from Kona Blue

Unadulterated Delight

Yellowtail

A week or so ago I got an email from someone commenting on SG and wondering if I was interested in receiving some free fish: "I’d be happy to send you Kona Kampachi and invite you to prepare it any way you like. If you’d like to share about the fish with your readers, great, but if not, don’t worry about it – it’s completely up to you." I happen to be a great believer in getting free stuff I'm interested in with no strings attached, so after checking out Kona Blue's Web site I told her to send it along. I'd try it and might or might not write about it and I might or might not be positive about the experience.

I'm here to say, "Wow!"

Yesterday (as I write this) I received a large, heavy package from the company. I was expecting it having received notification that it had been picked up by Fed-Ex two days earlier. I opened the box and found a huge plastic bag. I opened the bag and found an aluminized thermal blanket. I opened the blanket and found about a dozen frozen freezer packs. I dug through them and found a smaller plastic bag. I opened it and found two fresh (not frozen) fillets weighing about a pound each wrapped in plastic. I stuck my nose in the bag and sniffed — pure ocean. Supper had arrived.

Click to enlarge.

Kona Blue raises Hawaiian Yellowtail (also known as Almaco Jack and trademarked as Kona Kampachi) commercially in deep-water farms near Hawaii. The company claims their methods are sustainable and minimize environmental impact. I read about this type of ocean farming several years ago and from what I recall, if done properly it can meet both claims.

The fish I received had been harvested on Sunday. It then went into an iced brine which killed it. On Tuesday it was gutted, cleaned, and shipped. Kona only harvests enough fish at a time to serve that week's orders so the fish is always as fresh as they can make it, but most of their sales are wholesale and for whole fish to restaurants. The company's retail presence is limited.

It's not cheap. The two fillets I received retail for $17.00 each and shipping is another $33.00. Nevertheless, I could have easily fed six for that $67.00, about the cost of a good steak dinner at home. And as I said above, "Wow!" This was certainly in the top 10 of fish I've ever eaten. They say it's sushi grade so I tried a bit raw and it certainly is. But I elected to cook it.

I cut a fillet into thirds and brushed two of the thirds with olive oil, sprinkled sweet Spanish paprika on them along with a bit of salt, and then broiled it until barely cooked through. It was like eating butter. My plan had been to eat only one third and use the other cooked third in a salad for lunch today. Not possible. The fish was just too good and I ate it last night as well. I still have the third third and will do something with it this evening.

I also understand why the company was so laissez faire about whether I wrote them up or not. They knew that no real foodie could resist singing the praises of this fish once he or she had tasted it. It really gripes me to be so predictable, and I wish I could think of something negative to say to at least give the appearance objectivity, but the truth is saying something negative wouldn't be objective. The fish is just that good.

Hmmm, perhaps I should have held out for a press junket to Hawaii...

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5 Comments:

Anonymous Alanna said...

I wonder how it would be, smoked? My two favorite things in the stovetop smoker are trout and scallops --

So deliciously predictable --

AK

3/22/2008 07:59:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Alanna,
It would be great smoked.

3/22/2008 10:40:00 AM  
OpenID madamedonna said...

Kevin, on my recent trip to Kauai I was fortunate to enjoy many Kona Blue products. Kauai was an interesting place for food with a focus on sustainable agriculture, alluvial irrigation and this type of farming for fish. Many San Diego area restaurants feature their products too, although you have to inquire in order to know that. Nice write up!

3/22/2008 10:26:00 PM  
Blogger s'kat said...

This is the second place today I've seen a write-up about Kona Blue, and both were overwhelmingly positive.

It's about lunch time, and that pic has my mouth watering!

3/25/2008 12:47:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Donna,
It's amazing fish, and thanks.

S'kat,
Where was the other one?

3/25/2008 05:22:00 PM  

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