Friday, December 26, 2008

Toutièrre

Christmas Dinner

Tourtierre

My parents won't drive at night, so if I want to have them over to my place for a meal it has to be lunch and on most holidays I end up going to their house. That's fine except it usually means I can only cook one or two things and they either have to be transportable or simple enough to prepare in an hour. So when I learned my sister was coming down for Christmas I insisted we have Christmas dinner here - driving at night isn't a problem for her so she could bring the folks.

We began our meal with champagne, a smoked trout and cheese spread, and a mushroom pâte my mother had made — and we opened gifts. It was a significantly bookish year gift-wise. But given we're all fanatic readers that worked. (Dad gave me Fearnley-Whittingstall's Meat, which has been on my list for ages.) Then we had Christmas dinner.

Like everyone else, money is really tight for me right now so roast goose or prime rib were out.

Like everyone else, money is really tight for me right now so roast goose or prime rib were out. But this wasn't a huge problem as I've been wanting to make a traditional French Canadian (Quebecois) Christmas dish — Toutièrre. This is a savory meat pie made of pork and beef and it's not only extraordinarily good, but as you can see in the photo above it makes an impressive, albeit rustic, presentation.

To accompany it I sautéed kale with garlic and pork confit and made cauliflower puree. I've done cauliflower puree before but I ran across a recipe on Serious Eats that added shredded Parmigiano to the mix. For me, this was the surprise star. The cheese was an extraordinarily good complement to the cauliflower.

Inevitably, dessert was Bourbon Cake.

Tourtièrre
Serves 8 - 10.

pastry (see below)
1 lb ground beef
1 lb ground pork
1 lg onion — diced
3 cloves garlic — minced
2 tbls bacon grease or vegetable oil
1 1/2 tsp allspice
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1 c beef stock
3 ea medium potatoes — peeled and quartered
salt and pepper
1 ea egg
1 tsp milk

Make pastry and refrigerate (see below).

Boil potatoes until fork tender. Drain and cool.

Heat bacon grease or oil over medium high heat. Add beef, pork, onion, and garlic. Season with salt, pepper, and allspice. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring to cook evenly. Add beef broth, reduce heat, cover, and simmer 10 minutes. Cool. Drain liquid and reserve.

Heat oven to 400F.

In a bowl, coarsely crumble potatoes with a fork and add meat mixture. Stir in enough of the reserved broth to thoroughly moisten mixture but no more.

Remove pastry from refrigerator and allow to warm up until top edges are pliable -- about 10 minutes. Fill pastry shell to within 1/2" of top. Moisten edges and lay on top crust and press to seal. Beat together egg and milk and brush pastry. Cut several slits in top and bake in middle of oven for 40 minutes or until top is golden brown.

Pastry

You can substitute shortening for the lard if you wish, but the lard really works in this recipe.

2 1/2 c flour
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
3/4 c cold lard
1/2 c cold butter
5 tbsp ice water

Thoroughly mix flour, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Add the lard and break up with your fingers until the mixture is the consistency of a coarse corn meal.

Add water, a tablespoon at a time, until mixture clumps together. Use your hands to mix in the water.

Form two balls from the dough, one a bit larger than the other. Press the larger ball flat on a floured work surface and roll it out to form a circle. Line the inside of a 9" springform pan. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate.

Roll out second ball and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate.
On this occasion I made a mushroom sauce using red wine and veal demi-glace to go on the pie, but it isn't necessary.

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20 Comments:

Blogger Chuck said...

First time I've seen this recipe. Another great family meal. I gotta try this one.

12/26/2008 02:20:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Chuck,
It's amazingly good and is even good leftover, I'll be having it again tonight.

12/26/2008 02:27:00 PM  
Blogger cookiecrumb said...

Ah, bon!
It sounds dreamy, and it looks beautiful.
Now I understand.
xoxo

12/26/2008 07:42:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

CC,
Yet another example of the genius of peasant cooking.

12/27/2008 09:54:00 AM  
Anonymous Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) said...

These are very popular here in northern Rhode Island, where there's a large French-Canadian population that migrated to the area to work in the textile mills in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

12/27/2008 10:56:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Lydia,
If you've never made one, try it. IT is a favorite of mine.

12/27/2008 11:51:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Lydia,
If you've never made one, try it. IT is a favorite of mine.

12/27/2008 11:51:00 AM  
Blogger CJ said...

I LOVE toutierre. I was introduced to it when my cousin married a French Canadian and he brought them to a family gathering during the holidays.

It's been a holiday tradition ever since.

Your menu sounds fabulous.

(Would your mother be willing to share her mushroom pate recipe?)

Happy Holidays Kevin!!

12/27/2008 01:48:00 PM  
Anonymous Colleen said...

This is one of my favorite winter dinners. I wasn't sure of the cloves and allspice, but the spices really make it.

This recipe is so good that my dad begs me to make it for him.

Thanks for sharing the recipe, and have a great New Year Kevin.

12/28/2008 09:28:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

CJ,
I'll try to remember to ask her for it.

Colleen,
The "exotic" spices really make this dish.

12/28/2008 10:32:00 AM  
Blogger Kevin said...

That meat pie sounds good. I like the pattern on top of the pastry.

12/29/2008 08:22:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Glad I discovered this through a link on Simply Recipes. My French Canadienne mother-in-law made this every year on Christmas Eve to serve after midnight mass, when she hosted a party at her home in Rhode Island. Now that she passed, her recipe belongs to me and it is very much like yours only heavier on the cinnamon and the meat is pork only. But the big thing is that we serve ours with ketchup -- a MUST in Canuck tradition. It's absolutely delicious.

12/30/2008 10:13:00 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

It's spelt tourtière, not toutièrre or tourtièrre.

12/30/2008 12:40:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

This has been a staple in my family for generations!! My Memere made this every Christmas Eve, then my Mom and now I do...my kids know nothing else to have on Christmas eve, and of course the ketchup is a MUST :) btw all my relatives live or lived in Rhode Island too.

12/30/2008 03:37:00 PM  
Anonymous Jackie said...

Looks and sounds fantastic.

12/30/2008 03:51:00 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

THANKS SO MUCH for this! This sounds very, very much like a recipe I had and lost years ago. I've never forgotten it or stopped wanting a great tourtièrre but none of the recipes I found quite resembled what I remembered.

Mine had spinach in it as well and, of course, that will be simple to add.

12/31/2008 01:30:00 PM  
Blogger Gord Hunter said...

It is great to see a Tortiere recipe getting such a wide distribution. There are probably as many tortiere recipes in Quebec as there are families. Yours looks good.
It is always something we make for Christmas even out here in Saskatchewan.

www.gordskitchen.blogspot.com

1/06/2009 05:57:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Hey Gord,
I hadn't run across your blog before, some good-looking recipes there.

1/06/2009 06:12:00 PM  
Blogger Natalie Sztern said...

Living in Montreal, tourtière is a staple when anybody wants a true Québecois meal...and this looks as good as any I have seen.....

11/25/2009 06:13:00 PM  
Blogger Kevin said...

Hey Natalie! Welcome to SG!

I'm really pleased with this recipe, although the last time I made it I added some rubbed sage to the mix and a few scrapes of nutmeg. I also sometimes make a mushroom sauce/gravy - not that the flavor needs any embelishment, but it looks nicer on a plate with some sauce.

I've also done individual tourtieres in ramekins, which make a nice presentation.

11/25/2009 07:06:00 PM  

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