Thursday, March 04, 2010

Breakfast Casserole

All the Major Breakfast Groups

Breakfast Casserole

This breakfast casserole features the major breakfast food groups - eggs, sausage, and potatoes. With some coffee and juice to wash it down, you're ready to take on King Kong. Nevertheless my standard breakfast is a few cups of coffee, some yogurt or a banana, and a couple of cigarettes (although if I have to go somewhere in the morning I like getting a sausage biscuit at Burger King) so I make this for supper more often than breakfast. But whenever you make it, it's a great, easy, and inexpensive meal.

Recipe here...

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Friday, December 11, 2009

Deviled Eggs

A Perfect Munchie

Deviled Eggs

I adore deviled eggs and am quite capable of eating half a dozen (three whole eggs) at once. So I don't make them very often. There are two keys to deviled eggs, the first is to use older eggs (at least two weeks old). Older eggs are far easier to peel than fresh eggs because the membrane attaching the shell to the white weakens with age (and note, eggs will easily keep a month in the refrigerator so the eggs will be perfectly fine). Note: Chop up the whites instead of stuffing them and mix with the yolks and you have an excellent egg salad.

The second key is avoiding that green band around the yolk. The band is composed of sulfur compounds created by cooking the egg at too high a temperature. But a perfect hardboiled egg isn't hard to make at all:

1. Place eggs in a single layer in the bottom of a saucepan.
2. Cover with water to a depth of one inch.
3. Bring water just to a boil over medium-high heat.
4. Remove from heat, cover, and let sit for 17 minutes.
5. Cool eggs in an ice water bath to stop the cooking.
6. Once cooled, peel.

Deviled Eggs
Makes 12 servings.


12 hardboiled eggs
1 - 2 tbsp mayonnaise (depending on your preference)
1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
Juice of a small lemon
3 tbsp finely minced fresh dill
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste

Cut eggs in half and dump yolks in a small mixing bowl.Add remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly (I use an electric mixer). Taste and adjust flavors. Spoon into yolk mixture into whites and serve.

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Thursday, December 03, 2009

Ingredient: Eggs

In this country we tend to think of eggs as the ultimate, or at least penultimate, breakfast food. We eat them scrambled, fried, poached, and soft-boiled. Less frequently we have soufflés for breakfast or we'll eat them coddled or shirred. And they deserve their place in our hierarchy of breakfast foods because they're an excellent source of protein and cook in mere minutes with a minimum of preparation. We include them as an ingredient in our pancakes and grab them on muffins, biscuits, or croissants at fast food joints on our way to the office.

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Monday, October 26, 2009

SG Archive:
Soufflé Provençal

Froth

Souffle Provencal

I've loved soufflés for as long as I can remember, my mother made them fairly often when I was a child and I recall a feeling of wonder at the way they puffed and browned magically becoming a toasted yellow mushroom. I also recall wonder at their ethereal texture and rich goodness of egg and cheese — flavors somehow transformed to something better than eggs and cheese ordinarily are, a flavor as ethereal as the texture.

For some reason, though, making soufflés didn't come easily to me. I just couldn't get them to puff properly. I tried every trick in the books. And then I tried combinations of tricks but that impressive loft that makes a soufflé so stunning eluded me.

The recipe is unusual consisting of a chunky tomato sauce on the bottom of the dish with the soufflé floating on top.

Then one day I was reading a recipe in one of those women's magazine encyclopedias and a single phrase caught my attention: "...casually fold in remaining whites." Casually! My folding was far from casual as I earnestly attempted to produce a smooth, homogenous mixture and in doing so I was destroying bubbles with the abandon of a logger clear-cutting. That is what I had been doing wrong.

The recipe itself was unusual consisting of a chunky tomato sauce on the bottom of the dish with the soufflé floating on top. It's also delicious and though I've long since lost the original recipe, I still make something like it. For this particular version I added prosciutto to the recipe.

Soufflé Provençal
Serves 4.


Sauce:
1 15 oz. can diced tomatoes
1/4 c carrot — finely diced
1/4 c celery — finely diced
1/4 c onion — diced
1 lg. clove garlic — minced
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp dried herbes de province
1/4 c white wine
salt
1 pinch crushed red pepper
Soufflé:
3 tbsp sweet butter
Additional butter to grease dish
3 tbsp unbleached flour
1 c whole milk — at room temperature
4 egg yolks
4 egg whites — at room temperature
1/2 c grated manchego
2 oz proscuito about 1/8" thick
1/4 c finely grated parmesan
1 tsp ground mustard
1 tsp salt
1 tsp white pepper

Sauce:
Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add carrots, celery, onion, salt, and herbs and sauté until softened. Add garlic and cook another minute. Add wine and increase heat to medium high. Reduce wine by 1/2 and add tomatoes, including juice. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until most liquid has evaporated. Taste, adjust seasoning, and allow to cool.

Soufflé:
Heat oven to 425F. Grease soufflé dish with butter and dust with parmesan.

Mince prosciutto until very fine in a food processor.

Melt 3 tbsp butter over medium low heat, add flour, and cook for five minutes stirring constantly. Mix in mustard. Add milk and continue stirring until thickened. Add salt and pepper. Add in yolks, one at a time, whisking constantly to prevent the yolks from curdling. Stir in cheese and melt. Add proscuito and mix thoroughly. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Beat egg whites to medium stiff peaks. Thoroughly fold 1/3 of whites into sauce mixture. Casually fold mixture back into remaining whites. Pour tomato sauce into bottom of soufflé dish. Pour soufflé mixture on top, place in oven, reduce heat to 375F, and bake 40 to 45 minutes depending on how well done you like your soufflés. Don’t open the oven for the first 20 minutes!

Try this souffle with...
Baked Baby Artichokes
Asparagus Parmesan
Roasted Beets Dijonaise


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Thursday, September 10, 2009

Spanish Omelet
(Tortilla Patatas)

Tortilla Patatas

The proper name for a Spanish omelet is tortilla patatas meaning "potato pancake." According to my Spanish friends it should contain nothing but potatoes, eggs, and seasoning. these omelets are often featured in tapas bars and served at room temperature. But I prefer to gussy it up and eat it hot. Also, the proper way to cook the top is to invert the omelet onto a plate, top-down, and then slide it back into the skillet to finish, but I tend to have accidents when I do that, so instead I slide the skillet under my oven's broiler to finish cooking.

Recipe here...

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Monday, July 13, 2009

SG Archive: Cheshire Quiche

Gang aft Agley

Cheshire Quiche

I got an urge for quiche last week and thought it was a great opportunity to take advantage of local suppliers. I had some local smoked bacon in the freezer and figured that Friday afternoon I'd cruise by the farmer's market for fresh eggs and then the Horn of Plenty market for local cream and butter.

The only local cheese available is a cheddar that's not very good, but my friend, Q Correll, makes the lightest quiche I've ever eaten using imported Cheshire and I thought it would be particularly good with the smoked bacon. I could tell this was going to be a kick-ass quiche.

So Friday morning I started the bacon thawing and headed for the market. Neither of the two egg suppliers was there. Major let down.

Cheshire cheese makes a surprisingly light quiche.

Then the Horn of Plenty only had buttermilk — no cream or whole milk — and was also out of butter. Suddenly the wonderful quiche I'd been anticipating had become just another very good quiche.

As I said, the Cheshire makes a surprisingly light quiche and the smoked bacon was, indeed, an excellent match. Although I had to use half and half and butter from the supermarket that didn't hurt (it just didn't help). To the pastry I added dried thyme and, on a hunch, grated parmesan. I could have skipped the filling and just eaten crust for supper.

Cheshire Quiche
Recipe by Q Correll.
Serves 6.


1 1/2 c Cheshire cheese — shredded
8 slices smoked bacon — cooked and coarsely chopped
1 ea small onion — diced and sauteed in butter until translucent
1 1/2 c half and half
3 ea eggs
1/2 tsp powdered mustard
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp pepper
dash of cayenne
9" pie crust

Heat oven to 375F.

Sprinkle cheese, bacon, and onion in pie shell. Whisk together remaining ingredients and pour into pie shell. Cook on middle rack of oven for 45 minutes or until center is set.

All in all a very good meal, even if my plans did go astray. And I'll get another chance to do it with fresh eggs and cream.

Try this quiche with...
Fried Green Tomatoes
Dad's Dressing
Fudge Brownies


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Wednesday, April 01, 2009

Kitchen Window:
Cracking the Egg Code

Click to enlarge.

Celebrations of spring – both religious and secular – almost always include eggs. These symbols of creation, fertility and rebirth are also extraordinary little nutrition packages, and present in many of the things we eat.

The average large chicken egg provides 75 calories and 6.3 grams of protein in addition to calcium, iron, potassium, phosphorus and zinc. There also are five grams of fat in an egg and 200 milligrams of cholesterol...

Read the complete article at NPR's Kitchen Window.

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Friday, February 20, 2009

Something to Truffle With

Truffled Omelette

Omelette with truffles.

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Thursday, April 03, 2008

Feed Yourself

Feed Yourself


Scrambled Eggs

A few years back I made an appointment to meet a pair of friends at Copia. At the time I lived in Sacramento and Copia is in Napa so it was somewhere between a two and four hour drive depending on when I started — seriously a two to four hour difference in driving time. My friends were driving up from San Francisco, same deal for them. But they’re were long-time Californians and I’d only lived there a year at the time. We decided to meet at 11:00. They arrived at 10:55 and I arrived at 11:05. I don’t know about you, but I hate being frantic. I’m a planner and I don’t procrastinate. If I say I’ll be somewhere at 11:00, I’ll be there at 11:00, maybe 7:05 at worst if the exact timing doesn’t matter. If the exact timing matter I’ll likely arrive at 6:45.

I had a class, An Evening in Greece, scheduled last night and I had everything well in hand. It was an ambitious class in terms of getting it all into a 2-hour period, but I’d done my shopping the day before. I’d allowed time for a quick run to the grocery in case I’d forgotten something (and, because I’d doubled-checked my recipes the night before, I knew I’d need to make that run). I had all the prep planned, the menu/recipes printed out, my work versions of the recipes scaled (I was feeding 20 people, not six). I had a checklist of what to pack for the class and had a few notes for filling in "dead air."

In all my obsessing over the meal I was fixing for my class, I’d lost track of the need to feed myself and hadn’t.

When my alarm went off yesterday morning I spent about five minutes laying in bed going over my plans for the day, then got up to pour a cup of coffee (prepped the night before and brewed automatically just before I got up) and read the newspaper. Next I responded to my overnight email, then I ran down to the store to pick up an extra container of yogurt and some Triple Sec to flavor the yogurt for the cake (a last minute change in plans). When I got back I checked my email again and found a frantic note from an editor requesting last minute tweaks to an article. Shit!

Two hours later the editor was happy but my schedule was down the hole. The rest of the afternoon was a frantic effort to catch up. I arrived for the class with only 40 minutes to spare instead of the hour I prefer, and I had a major prep job (making meatballs) still to do. Fortuately, at this venue (Glass Bazaar, if you happen to live in Knoxville) I have excellent cooks helping me. We managed to get everything ready with five minutes to spare, and as I paused to review our mise I was handed a glass of wine and reminded, “It’s not really the Normandy invasion, you know.”

The class ran a tad longer than scheduled due to a faulty burner, but otherwise went off without a hitch and was a great success with folks chiming in at a break to request classes on other things. The pizza class is now scheduled, Middle-Eastern cuisine is probable, and grilling and barbequing will absolutely happen if I can figure out how to do it there.

I got home at 9:00 pm, stiff as a board (I’m too old and fat to spend eight straight hours standing on a hard floor), tired, and, not having had more than a taste (literally) of anything all day, hungry. So I turned on the TV and collapsed to watch one of those cop shows — something mindless. By 11:00 pm I was very hungry and needed something quick and easy.

An artichoke went into the steamer and I melted a couple of tablespoons of butter with some lemon juice and dried lavender over low heat. So what else? The perfect quick meal, of course: eggs.

I didn’t even want to futz with an omelet, scrambled was fine. While the artichoke cooked, I chopped some prosciutto, some green pepper, and whipped three eggs with a bit of salt, pepper, and fresh oregano (left over from the class). When the artichoke was done the eggs went into a buttered skillet along with the prosciutto and some goat cheese. The meal would have been perfect if I’d only had another glass of wine, but, alas, I didn’t.

Nevertheless, I had a bite of artichoke, a bite of egg, exactly what I needed. And then I forced myself to get up and take a couple of photos. In all my obsessing over the meal I was fixing for my class, I’d lost track of the need to feed myself and hadn’t. I wanted to capture that simple repast as an object lesson and making myself photograph it, as hungry and tired as I was, made the lesson.

I spend a lot of time and words evangelizing food and cooking as a way each of us can reach out and touch others. And food and cooking is certainly that and I think, given American attitudes about food, it’s the best approach to getting others to cook and, even better, explore cooking. But ultimately I must cook for myself. I must make myself happy. And I must remember that even with all my highfaluting ideas and philosophies about food and cooking, when I’m tired and sore a simple meal such as a grilled cheese sandwich or scrambled eggs and a steamed artichoke, made in 15 minutes, is often the perfect meal — or would it have been if I’d had some wine.

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