Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Usefulness

Usefulness

Mixers

In a recent blog entry, one of my favorite writers, Michael Ruhlman, raised the issue of favorite kitchen gadgets. It's a great question, particularly for those of us in love with gadgets.

Ruhlman writes, "I’m not the first to suggest that a tool that has only a single use is just as useful in the garbage as it is in your drawer. A mango slicer, please. An egg separater — Jesus, an egg separator! We are born with the perfect egg separators, right at the end of our arms! Why would anyone be moved to invent one?" And he's right, Alton Brown has been lecturing for years on avoiding specialty tools, what he calls, "single-use gadgets."

This brings up what I think is the real issue: ubiquity.

But there is something that has been bothering me about this philosophy for a long time and, as he often does, Ruhlman managed to cast the issue in way that illuminated what I had problems with.

It seems to me that a knife is a single-use gadget — it's only good for cutting things. Yes, it can cut multiple things, but then my deep-fat fryer will fry multiple things. And sure, I could open cans using my paring knife but it would be hard on the knife and wouldn't work very well, instead I turn to a can-opener, a device only good for opening cans. Admittedly I could make coffee in a skillet, but I'm also sure I'm happier with the single-purpose coffee maker I use every day.

This brings up what I think is the real issue: ubiquity. My coffee maker is essential because it's ubiquitous — I use it every day. And my coffee maker is perfectly designed to do its one job supremely well. I also use my chef's knife every day, but only use my paring knife perhaps once every three weeks. I use my can opener every two weeks or so, but what else would I open a can with?

I've moved seven times in the last 12 years and I've been ruthless about pairing down books, gee-gaws, and kitchen gadgets with each move. Nevertheless, I still have a 15" by 20" roasting pan that I only use about three times a year. The problem is, when I need to roast two large pork loins or cook a dozen crème brulees I have to have it. So although it's not ubiquitous, it is essential.

At the moment I own (in order of purchase) an electric hand mixer (the original was replaced in 1988), a Cuisinart food processor (1977), a Krups mini food processor (a Christmas gift from my mother, circa 1987), a 1960 Oster blender (given to me around 1990 by my mother when my parents moved), a Kitchen Aid stand mixer (1996), and a KA immersion blender (2004).

That's a lot of tools that do the same thing: chopping and mixing. On my next move I'll get rid of the hand mixer (the stand mixer is great for big jobs and the immersion blender for small ones), the mini food processor, and the blender (again, the immersion blender can replace them). But note that both the KA stand mixer and immersion blender are new tools for me and are designed to perform multiple tasks — and because of that they have become ubiquitous and essential.

As for the deep-fat fryer, I'm reserving my decision on it. I use it no more than twice a year, but it works well, is easy to clean up, and minimizes the frying odors that are so appetizing when fresh and so unpleasant when stale. And I do love my yearly allotment of perfect fries, potato skins, and homemade fish and chips.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Monday, April 28, 2008

Spot-On: The Cost of Eating

Click to enlarge.

You may not have noticed, but food prices actually started going up over two years ago. I was acutely aware of the trend because I was watching the average food costs for my clients climb from 30 percent to 40 percent by the end of last summer. Because I charge a flat rate for food and service I was also watching my income decline. So last August I bumped my prices up. I'm already almost back to a 40 percent food cost. (Note: I buy from grocery stores just like you do.)

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, April 21, 2008

Spot-On: A Food Face

Click to enlarge.

Best I can figure is that I have a food face. I was in the market the other day, looking for a good bunch of asparagus when the woman next to me asked, "How do you cook asparagus?" She went on to say, "My husband doesn't like it so I've never cooked it, but I really like it and I decided to just buy some and make it for me."

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Monday, April 14, 2008

Spot-On: More Insanity
from the U.S.D.A.

Click to enlarge.

Most bureaucracies are famed for their lack of imagination, but the U.S. Department of Agriculture manages to consistently confound that dismal notion by finding new ways to control what we eat and who we buy it from. How the U.S.D.A. plans to regulate the farmers from whom I buy locally-raised meats is a good example of this ineptitude

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | | | |

Labels: , , ,

Read more...

Monday, April 07, 2008

Spot-On: Urban Farming

Click to enlarge.

What makes someone tear up his front yard and plant vegetables? Why do people want to grow vegetables a mile from the White House or raise chickens in Brooklyn? I mean, it's gotta be ugly during the winter and early spring, and I can tell you from experience that a vegetable garden is an order of magnitude more work than a lawn.

You can read the complate article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Thursday, April 03, 2008

Feed Yourself

Feed Yourself


Scrambled Eggs

A few years back I made an appointment to meet a pair of friends at Copia. At the time I lived in Sacramento and Copia is in Napa so it was somewhere between a two and four hour drive depending on when I started — seriously a two to four hour difference in driving time. My friends were driving up from San Francisco, same deal for them. But they’re were long-time Californians and I’d only lived there a year at the time. We decided to meet at 11:00. They arrived at 10:55 and I arrived at 11:05. I don’t know about you, but I hate being frantic. I’m a planner and I don’t procrastinate. If I say I’ll be somewhere at 11:00, I’ll be there at 11:00, maybe 7:05 at worst if the exact timing doesn’t matter. If the exact timing matter I’ll likely arrive at 6:45.

I had a class, An Evening in Greece, scheduled last night and I had everything well in hand. It was an ambitious class in terms of getting it all into a 2-hour period, but I’d done my shopping the day before. I’d allowed time for a quick run to the grocery in case I’d forgotten something (and, because I’d doubled-checked my recipes the night before, I knew I’d need to make that run). I had all the prep planned, the menu/recipes printed out, my work versions of the recipes scaled (I was feeding 20 people, not six). I had a checklist of what to pack for the class and had a few notes for filling in "dead air."

In all my obsessing over the meal I was fixing for my class, I’d lost track of the need to feed myself and hadn’t.

When my alarm went off yesterday morning I spent about five minutes laying in bed going over my plans for the day, then got up to pour a cup of coffee (prepped the night before and brewed automatically just before I got up) and read the newspaper. Next I responded to my overnight email, then I ran down to the store to pick up an extra container of yogurt and some Triple Sec to flavor the yogurt for the cake (a last minute change in plans). When I got back I checked my email again and found a frantic note from an editor requesting last minute tweaks to an article. Shit!

Two hours later the editor was happy but my schedule was down the hole. The rest of the afternoon was a frantic effort to catch up. I arrived for the class with only 40 minutes to spare instead of the hour I prefer, and I had a major prep job (making meatballs) still to do. Fortuately, at this venue (Glass Bazaar, if you happen to live in Knoxville) I have excellent cooks helping me. We managed to get everything ready with five minutes to spare, and as I paused to review our mise I was handed a glass of wine and reminded, “It’s not really the Normandy invasion, you know.”

The class ran a tad longer than scheduled due to a faulty burner, but otherwise went off without a hitch and was a great success with folks chiming in at a break to request classes on other things. The pizza class is now scheduled, Middle-Eastern cuisine is probable, and grilling and barbequing will absolutely happen if I can figure out how to do it there.

I got home at 9:00 pm, stiff as a board (I’m too old and fat to spend eight straight hours standing on a hard floor), tired, and, not having had more than a taste (literally) of anything all day, hungry. So I turned on the TV and collapsed to watch one of those cop shows — something mindless. By 11:00 pm I was very hungry and needed something quick and easy.

An artichoke went into the steamer and I melted a couple of tablespoons of butter with some lemon juice and dried lavender over low heat. So what else? The perfect quick meal, of course: eggs.

I didn’t even want to futz with an omelet, scrambled was fine. While the artichoke cooked, I chopped some prosciutto, some green pepper, and whipped three eggs with a bit of salt, pepper, and fresh oregano (left over from the class). When the artichoke was done the eggs went into a buttered skillet along with the prosciutto and some goat cheese. The meal would have been perfect if I’d only had another glass of wine, but, alas, I didn’t.

Nevertheless, I had a bite of artichoke, a bite of egg, exactly what I needed. And then I forced myself to get up and take a couple of photos. In all my obsessing over the meal I was fixing for my class, I’d lost track of the need to feed myself and hadn’t. I wanted to capture that simple repast as an object lesson and making myself photograph it, as hungry and tired as I was, made the lesson.

I spend a lot of time and words evangelizing food and cooking as a way each of us can reach out and touch others. And food and cooking is certainly that and I think, given American attitudes about food, it’s the best approach to getting others to cook and, even better, explore cooking. But ultimately I must cook for myself. I must make myself happy. And I must remember that even with all my highfaluting ideas and philosophies about food and cooking, when I’m tired and sore a simple meal such as a grilled cheese sandwich or scrambled eggs and a steamed artichoke, made in 15 minutes, is often the perfect meal — or would it have been if I’d had some wine.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Monday, March 31, 2008

Fat, Fabulous Fat

Fats and oils.

Like most (all?) humans, I love fat. And there's good reason at the root of that love. Fats are essential to our metabolic process. They're the way plants and animals store energy for future use. Because we can readily and quickly convert fat to serve immediate energy needs, it appeals very strongly to us.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Thursday, March 20, 2008

The Deadly Reuben

The Deadly Reuben

Reuben

Ed Levine isn't the only foodie trying to lose weight. As he notes in this post referring to an NY Times article, even Mario Batali is trying to lose weight. Me? Been there, done that, eventually and inevitably outgrew the new slimmer t-shirt.

Around 1988 I decided I simply was a short, balding, fat guy and quit worrying about it. I was never going to be slim for long. I had engaged in a number of highly successful diets, but always gained the weight back. So screw it. And when I finally said screw it, I not only eliminated the anxiety, but lost 10 pounds. I was still a short, balding, fat guy but 10 pounds lighter. And for the next decade and a half I hovered within 10 pounds, plus and minus, of that weight.

Frankly, I'm probably engaged in a Quixote-esc battle.

Then, two years ago I decided to lose weight again. Admittedly my weight had gone up significantly from the set-point it had hovered around, but still the diet was a mistake. I proceeded to lose 75 pounds in about six months and got down to what the weight police say I should weigh. I relaxed. I now weigh more than I ever have. I would have been better off happily remaining a short, fat, balding guy. Eventually I would have returned to my set point.

So I'm trying to find that equilibrium I once had, it's like a word on the tip of my tongue, but I haven't recaptured that state of mind yet. In the meantime, out of pure evilness and because I needed a new project this year, I'm attempting to kill Ed Levine by posting sandwiches.

This is not your ordinary Reuben.

I made the bread. I made the corned beef (from raw brisket). I made the sauerkraut. I even made the 1000 Island dressing (although I confess to using commercial mayo, ketchup, and relish in it).

Frankly, I'm probably engaged in a Quixote-esc battle. Would Levine go to the trouble of making a Reuben completely from scratch? I suspect not. He'd buy the bread, maybe use a commercial corned beef, certainly not wait three weeks for the kraut to ferment. Hell, Levine lives in New York, he'd just head for the nearest deli. But that sandwich wouldn't be nearly as good as this one was.

Technorati: | | | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Spot-On: Culinary Winter

I don't know about you, but as far as I'm concerned March is the dead of winter culinarily. I hate it. It's that time of year when there's "nothing to cook" and my kitchen seems as barren as the trees outside. How can I say that? The cooking magazines are filled with spring dishes while the grocery is still filled with winter ingredients. And all too often, old and tired winter ingredients.

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Monday, March 10, 2008

Spot-On: Name that Thing

Hog.

The other night I participated in a call-in radio program, Dinner with Chefsline, with a fellow who owns a butcher/wine/cheese shop in Charleston, S.C. I was introduced as a chef, but I prefer to be called a professional cook. Chef means "chief" and it refers to the individual's position in managing the kitchen crew in a professional kitchen. Chef is a management job and I'm seldom a chef. Ninety-nine times out of a 100 I'm simply the cook - paid or not.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | |

Labels: ,

Read more...

Monday, February 25, 2008

Spot-On: No Prevention, No Cure

Click to enlarge.

The Hallmark beef recall has become big news in the two weeks since the Humane Society video was released, which is great, but as I've read and listened to the coverage I've been angry about one thing: The news agencies keep calling it a "USDA recall," which is flat wrong and is misleading the public.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , , ,

Read more...

Monday, February 18, 2008

Spot-On: Class Foodfare

Click to enlarge.

When I lived in Eugene, Oregon Saturday mornings were my shopping day. It wasn't unusual for me to begin at 9:00 with a trip to the farmers' market in downtown Eugene, where, during the summer months, I could find those luscious leeks, ravishing radishes, baby beets, and even wild mushrooms on occasion — all picked early Friday evening or Saturday morning.

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Spot-On: Science and Fries

Click to enlarge.

I've been reading Hervé This' book, Molecular Gastronomy. If you're not familiar with the term "molecular gastronomy," it refers to the application of science to cooking and is typified by the creations of Ferran Adrià at elBulli and Grant Achatz at Alinea. These chefs apply cutting edge, often high-tech techniques (many of which they invent themselves) to food.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , , ,

Read more...

Monday, February 04, 2008

Spot-On: USDA
D is for "Downer"

Click to enlarge.

The food news last week was grim, disturbing, and troubling. It featured a video taken by members of the Humane Society of the United States that shows workers at Hallmark Meat Packing in Chino, California picking up, rolling over and dragging "downer" cows — animals that can't walk — with forklifts, shocking the animals, and shooting water up their noses in an effort to get them into the slaughter house. The video is grim and graphic, no animal should ever be treated that way.

You can read the complete article on Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, January 28, 2008

Spot-On: Finding Comfort

Click to enlarge.

Colleen is a solid middle-aged mid-westerner of Anglo-Saxon stock who's favorite comfort food is kimchi. Right, kimchi, the potent fermented Korean vegetable dish. In fact, she makes her own. So how did someone from Kansas end up loving such an exotic dish?

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, January 21, 2008

Spot-On:Send in the Clones

Click to enlarge.

Let's apply a little logic to the issue of cloning animals. First, cloning is not genetic engineering; it is not about transferring genes from an eggplant to a cow. It's about taking the nucleus of an animal's cell, embedding it in an unfertilized egg, and starting the natural process of embryonic growth. There is no logical reason why the meat or milk of a cloned animal should be any more dangerous than that of any other animal. And in some six years of study, that's what the FDA has concluded. If you think about it, identical twins are simply clones that arise naturally during gestation.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, January 14, 2008

Spot-On: Food TV -
Culinary Wasteland

Click to enlarge.

I happened to catch an episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" the other night. He was in Singapore for the show's season opener on the Travel Channel and, for a change, didn't eat anything particularly outrageous - other than the bull penis. I enjoy Bourdain's writing but I'm not tremendously fond of this show. It's essentially a travelogue and Bourdain's nearly inflectionless delivery is tiring. But despite all that, it's the best food show on television because Bourdain clearly loves food. The same can't be said of the culinary wasteland that his shows once called home, the Food Network.

You can read the complete article at Spot-on.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , , ,

Read more...

Monday, January 07, 2008

Spot-on: Eating Around
the Edges

Click to enlarge.

When I walk into any of the five grocery stores I regularly shop at I turn to the right and enter the produce section. It's in the same spot in every store. (In fact, most people on entering most stores of any sort begin by turning right.) It may be an accident that the produce section is the first department on the right in all those stores, I've certainly been in lots of store where it wasn't, but it's not an accident that produce is against a wall. That's its position in almost every grocery store in the country.

You can read the complete article at Spot-on.

Technorati: | | | | |

Labels: , , , ,

Read more...

Wednesday, January 02, 2008

Happy New Year

Fondue

I spent this past Saturday night dreaming about pork confit. I'm not kidding. I have, and have always had, a bladder the size of a pea so as usual I woke up at 2:00, 4:00, and 6:00 to go to the bathroom. Each time I woke up I had confit on my mind, as I did when I finally got up at 8:00.

Admittedly, I was planning to make confit on Sunday. But I've made it before and so I didn’t think it was a big deal, but apparently it was to my subconscious. I suspect it was because the pork confit was the culmination of a really splendid month of food and cooking, which marked the end of a seriously good year of food, cooking, and writing.

The pork confit was the culmination of a really splendid month of food and cooking.

In December I wrote my first restaurant review for what I hope will be a regular gig as reviewer for a local life-style magazine. And, perhaps obviously, I began with my favorite restaurant where, as I expected, we had a marvelous meal. I ordered a pork chop stuffed with Allan Benton's country ham and gruyere with a perfect Dijon/Wine Sauce — I've got to get to know that chef, he can teach me stuff. The only disappointment in the meal was that the usual exemplary service wasn't.

I also made my second batch of lamb sausage, refining the recipe I'd come up with for the first batch. It's almost perfect after two trials. I think the third batch will nail it. Currently I have two links left from the second batch and I'm thinking about adding it to pasta with a simple red sauce.

I also made my first batch of duck confit in December. I made it to go in a cassoulet that will featured in an article in NPR's Kitchen Window — and because I had a real hankering for duck rillettes: something I've never had before but knew I would love.

So why pork confit this weekend? First, I'd eaten the last of my last batch in October. Second, once you've eaten things like pork or duck confit, homemade pancetta**, and similar preserved meats you don't want to be without having it at hand. I can buy pancetta here (although not as good as what I make) but pork confit and duck rillettes aren't to be found in Knoxville.

Third I was planning on fondue for my New Year's Day dinner. Once I quit going to parties on New Year's Eve, it became obvious to me that the purpose of the celebration is the new year, not the old one, and so the first day of the year is the appropriate time for feasting.

For the fondue I thought that rather than sliced meats, the deeper, more vicious, flavors of duck rillettes and pork confit would not only add new punch to this much-loved dish, but also fit more into the tradition of fondue as a meal eaten by herdsmen on the mountainside along with whatever they had available.

So this evening I had fondue. Along with duck rillettes and pork confit on slices of baguette — and some cornishons, a few olives, and a handful of peppers — for supper. A perfect beginning for a new year.

Technorati: | | | | |

Labels:

Read more...

Monday, December 24, 2007

Spot-on: Keeper of the Flame

Click to enlarge.

This morning — I'm writing the week before Christmas, I mailed off my gifts to kith and ken. Every package contained food, and each box carried a gift of sorts from my mother’s mother: Bourbon Cake. My grandmother, Mummo, is long dead but she returns to life, or at least memory, each Christmas.

You can read the complete article at Spot-on.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, December 17, 2007

Spot-on: Business as Usual

Click to enlarge.

I have a lot of respect for Robert Reich, former Secretary of Labor for much of Bill Clinton's presidency. For an economist he generally seems to have appreciation of the effects of economics on the little guy. But he missed the point of much of the debate over the 2007 Farm Bill when, on Tuesday's Talk of the Nation, he argued that a concern for family farms was misplaced because Big Ag is producing so much food so efficiently.

You can read the complete article at Spot-on.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, December 10, 2007

Spot-on: Sectarian Eating

Click to enlarge.

This past Thanksgiving I got two calls about vegetarian dishes. One was from a woman whose vegan nephew was coming to dinner and she wanted to know how to make a green bean casserole (the equivalent of that mushroom soup thing) without any animal products in it. The other was from a woman wanting to serve Tofurkey with all the trimmings.

You can read the complete article at Spot-on.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, November 26, 2007

Spot-On: A Cook's List

Click to enlarge.

Cash: the register is ringing
Time to buy a bunch of stuff.
"Plastic taken," stores are singing
Now the season's getting rough.

~ to the tune of Hark the Herald Angels

During my 20s I managed a pair of Pier 1 Imports stores and a Kirkland's Gifts and I loved the Christmas season. By the time the day after Thanksgiving rolled around, the hard part was done and you were committed to your choice of merchandise and quantities — for better or worse. The only thing to do by then was settle into your shoes and have fun helping people with their Christmas shopping while racking up obscene daily sales totals.

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, November 19, 2007

Spot-On: The Bambi Syndrome

Click to enlarge.

Here are two words you don't often see together: turkey and extraordinary. Nevertheless, about six Thanksgivings ago I enjoyed one of the best turkeys I've ever eaten. It was at my brother's house in Vermont and the turkey was wild, shot earlier in the week by a friend of my brother. The bird was a far cry from the flavorless mutants sold in supermarkets and even superior to the more expensive free-range turkeys such as those from Lobels. This freshly slain animal was all dark meat, juicy, and packed with flavor.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, November 12, 2007

Spot-On: Art and Science

Click to enlarge.

Craft is the nexus, an apogee, of art and science. During my 20-plus year career as a computer programmer and editor of programming magazines there was a constant discussion of whether good programming was an art or a science. It was, and still is, both. Like cooking, it begins with science — verifiable facts, mathematics, technology, and logic — but real success required art — intuition, a sense of proportion, the search for an indefinable elegance.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | | |

Labels: , ,

Read more...

Monday, November 05, 2007

Spot-On: T-Day Minus 17 — Start Now!

Click to enlarge.

It's November. In three short weeks a holiday considered the epitome of food and the epicenter of its cultural, political, ideological, and psychological significance in this country will take place. It is a celebration focused on cooking and eating and even those who consider grilling a steak ambitious think about roasting a turkey with dressing, making gravy, and searching the Internet for that horrible green bean and cream soup casserole.

In other words, it's Thanksgiving.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

Technorati: | | | | |