Saturday, August 15, 2009

Hamburger Heaven

Hamburger Heaven

Hamburger

Those of you who have followed this blog for a year or more (and if you've been following it for more than three years - please let me know, SG is approaching it's seventh birthday in October this year) will have noted that I'm a fan of simple cooking. Simple doesn't always mean quick or easy or cheap. A lot of food requires long and slow cooking to become luscious. It requires chopping up onions and carrots and celery to produce taste. It requires wine to produce richness. It might even require anchovies to create depth. But the most complicated kitchen technique you'll find in most of my recipes is a pie crust. The most outlandish ingredient is the afore-mentioned anchovies. The most work is peeling and dicing.

When you eat a burger like that you understand why hamburgers achieved their universal popularity prior to the era of Burger King and McDonalds.

Oh sure. There are exceptions to this focus. I adore soufflés and they can be fussy. Fondue requires some time spent over the stove. And cassoulet - peasant dish that it is - isn't made in most American kitchens from the pantry ingredients and leftovers found in the French kitchens where it originated. But often seriously good food is quick, easy, and cheap.

I made hamburgers last night.

I bought some ground beef (pasture-raised) at the farmers' market and shaped it into patties (Tip: press your thumb down into the center of the patty to keep it from shrinking into an elongated softball). Gave the patties a couple of pinches of salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Then I grilled them in a cast iron skillet. When I turned them over I topped them with a chuck of good cheddar cheese and covered the skillet to promote melting.

In the meantime I made a sauce of 3 tablespoons mayo, 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, and 1 tablespoon A1 Sauce. The sauce went on ordinary hamburger buns followed by fresh tomato, lettuce, and the burgers. By the time I finished eating a burger the juices had turned the bun into a soggy mess and I was using all ten fingers to hold it together.

But damn it was good! When you eat a burger like that you understand why hamburgers achieved their universal popularity prior to the era of Burger King and McDonalds.

Go make a hamburger. A basic hamburger with no additives like minced garlic or curry powder or feta cheese, just the best meat you can buy. Dress it simply with local tomatoes and lettuce - onion if you like. Toss on a thick slice of cheese and let it melt. Add the condiments you prefer to a decent bun (I screwed that one up on this effort). And when you bite into it reflect on how easy, quick, and simple a complete meal (because it is a complete meal) can be.

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Monday, January 14, 2008

Spot-On: Food TV -
Culinary Wasteland

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I happened to catch an episode of Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" the other night. He was in Singapore for the show's season opener on the Travel Channel and, for a change, didn't eat anything particularly outrageous - other than the bull penis. I enjoy Bourdain's writing but I'm not tremendously fond of this show. It's essentially a travelogue and Bourdain's nearly inflectionless delivery is tiring. But despite all that, it's the best food show on television because Bourdain clearly loves food. The same can't be said of the culinary wasteland that his shows once called home, the Food Network.

You can read the complete article at Spot-on.

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Monday, July 30, 2007

Spot-On: Status Quo

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My two friends, "Mellani" and "Mike" raise grass-fed sheep on 50 acres of organic pasture set in a wooded farm in Missouri. They had a record-breaking 38 lambs born this year, which, on the face of it, sounds great. But not so great actually. The problem is, they really don't have a market for their lambs (nor the cattle or hogs they used to raise before the market price dropped below the production price). It's eight hours round trip to the nearest large city where they might be able to sell their "crop" but that isn't practical.

The local market is too small to adequately support even their current production - the result is they're cutting back on the number of ewes and, so, lambs next year...

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, July 23, 2007

Spot-On: FAIR or Foul

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Like many of our social programs, what's now known as the Farm Bill got its start in Roosevelt's New Deal legislation during the Great Depression. During this period crop prices frequently dropped below production costs and sometimes even fell to zero — literally. Farmers, even successful farmers (in the sense of producing a good crop) were losing their farms. So the government stepped in and offered farmers a choice, the government would establish a target price for certain commodity crops, crops that could be stored for long periods (such as rice, wheat, and corn). If market prices dropped below the target price farmers could take out a government loan to cover the cost of storage for their crops until prices recovered, or, if prices stayed low too long, they could keep the money and let the government keep the crops.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, July 16, 2007

Spot-On: Should You Care?

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The food press is all over it, but no one else is paying much attention to the so-called farm bill coming up for renewal this September. True, the bill isn’t relevant to everyone. Those who don’t eat or drink to stay alive needn’t pay much attention. But if you do count those activities as central to your continued well-being then a few moments of consideration might be worthwhile.

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, July 09, 2007

You Say Tomato

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Last week I mentioned that my first BLT of the year is what I regard as the true arrival of summer. At this time of year I eat at least one, and sometimes two or three tomatoes a day. I make a variation of the Italian insalata caprese using feta instead of mozzarella. This Greek take on the Italian specialty is my most-common lunch during the summer.

You can read the entire article at Spot-On.

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Monday, July 02, 2007

Spot-On: Summer at Last

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One of the problems with farmers' markets is the hours. For instance, when I lived in Sacramento there were half a dozen markets each week, but unfortunately all but one took place during the workweek. Those hours make them difficult for people with jobs to shop at, and even if you can leave work to visit a market, you don't want to leave a bag of fresh produce sitting in a hot car all afternoon, and some things you want to refrigerate immediately.

You can read the compete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, June 25, 2007

Spot-On: Meat & Three

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If you wander the byways of the South, avoiding the interstates and instead taking what William Least Heat Moon called the "blue highways" you'll eventually begin to notice signs for that mainstay of Southern eateries: the meat-n-three.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, June 18, 2007

Spot-On: Fire Builder

Unlike most folks, I learned to grill meat over wood. I grew up on a small farm in Eastern Tennessee within sight of the Smoky Mountains. Only about half of the 40 acres we owned were cleared, the rest was forest. This meant we had a ready supply of wood for grilling — including that southern king-of-smoke, hickory.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, June 11, 2007

Spot-On: Think About It

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Three weeks ago in "Teach Your Children Well" I wrote: "It seems that more and more folks either don’t cook at all or cook as a matter of self-image and for the sake of conveying a lifestyle. But we should cook, mostly, to have something good to eat and because cooking itself is nourishing to our souls." Last week I added another thought to this in my commentary on the current glut of chefs. ...

You can read the entire article at Spot-On.

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Monday, June 04, 2007

Spot-On: White Jacket, Blue Collar

Kneading Bread

Jacques Pepin, the master chef who helped popularize French cooking in the U.S., was apprenticed to a chef at age 14. Apprenticed. Cooking has always been a blue-collar job - at its best, a craft. It's a craft that was well-regarded in France, where people have long taken their food seriously, but nevertheless it held a position in the social framework not different in kind from such jobs as seamstress or automobile mechanic.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, May 21, 2007

Spot-On: Teach Your Children Well

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I got an odd phone call a few weeks back. In fact, it began with the woman who’d called introducing herself and then saying, “I have an odd request.”

April 26 was “Take Your Child to Work Day” and the call was about the woman’s daughter Emma. It seems her son was going to work with her husband on the 26th, but Emma wanted to be a personal chef when she grew up — Lord knows how she got that particular idea. Wanting to be a famous chef a la Emeril is one thing, but wanting to be a personal chef is all about the food and cooking.

Read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, May 14, 2007

Spot-On: Going for Silver

My mother gave me a copy of the first edition of The Silver Palate Cookbook for Christmas the year it came out and it quickly became my go-to book for recipe ideas, as it did for many other cooks. A couple of years later The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook was published, followed in turn by The New Basics Cookbook. By this time my siblings also had copies and we took to calling them the White Book (because of its white spine), the Red Book (because of its red spine), and the Big Book (because it was big).

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, May 07, 2007

Caution: Swallowing Hazard

It may be a statistical accident that in the past 12 months we've had three large and unrelated cases of e-Coli contamination. Pure happenstance that a Georgia peanut butter plant was shipping peanut butter contaminated with salmonella... A mere fluke that gluten contaminated with melamine has shown up ... in food fed to pigs and chickens. But I don't think so.

Read the compete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, April 30, 2007

Spot-On: Creation

Creation

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As a cook and one-time musician, I'm much more likely to interpret someone else's work than create my own. But sometimes, I do manage work at a more imaginative level. I don’t claim, even as a cook, to operate at the level of a James Taylor, much less a Chopin. The culinary ideas of Daniel Boulud — and the skills and knowledge and imagination he brings to his ideas — are as far beyond my poor talents as Einstein's equations. Yet, why should Boulud have all the fun?

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Paisano: Lamb Cannellini

Paisano: Lamb Cannellini

Beans and Lamb

The Paisano sat across from me smirking into his wine. We'd gotten into a political argument over dinner and he was quite sure he had "won" the discussion. But the fact is Paisano has no more familiarity with the rules of logic than he does of playing a violin (and I've heard him attempt that). But if he proves a point to his own satisfaction, then it is, "Phhit! Proven!" Stephen Colbert is more capable of rational thought than the old man.

Phitt himself! He needs to trim his beard or shave, one. He looks like a homeless monkey. Yes, I know, an ad hominen attack, but he spent the evening attacking me and refusing to examine the facts of the issue. He says I'm effete, only he thinks "effete" means the same thing as "feminine" but without brains. He spends far too much time hanging around rich people and listening to their insular take on reality.

The discussion began with a remark I made about health care, and Paisano's response was, "Don't get sick." I averred and pointed out that getting sick isn't always a matter of choice, I offered being involved as a passenger in an automobile accident as an example.

His response was, "You just use what you have." I said, "But you have to have something." And, because we were in the kitchen and he had just complained I had nothing to eat, I thought I had won the point. Nope.

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He glared at me. Opening the refrigerator again, he pulled out a plastic tub with some leftover kale. Rummaging further, he sighed. I smiled, "What's the problem?" I asked. He ignored me and opened the freezer, quickly discovering a lamb leg bone with some meat on it (a leftover from a cooking class). He pulled out a plastic tub labeled, "Duck Stock." He said, "Beans. You got beans?" I had canned beans, cannellini. He said, "My friend, you're gonna eat."

He thawed the lamb in hot water (unimpressed when I told him that wasn't safe) and the duck stock in a pot on the stove. He pulled down my chicken brick (a clay cooker), something I hadn't used in years, scrubbed it out, and soaked it with water. Complaining only that I didn’t have any wine in the house, he actually reached into his own pocket for money and sent me out to buy a bottle of "something red and good," saying, "You have my money for wine, use what you have. And I need cigarettes, too." Of course, he didn't give me enough money for both.

The meal was good, and beautiful to look at reflecting the Italian flag with its colors of red, white, and green. But when I pointed out that he wouldn't be able to make as good a meal again tomorrow night, and that the fact he could make it all reflected my efforts to anticipate the future, he shrugged and said, "Tomorrow we will worry about tomorrow." In his pea-brain he had won the argument. Stupid old man.

Lamb Cannelllini

1 lb lamb -- cut into 3/4" pieces
2 tbsp olive oil
1 md onion -- diced
3 cloves garlic -- minced
2 cans cannellini, 20 oz
1 can diced tomatoes, 15 oz
1 tbsp Herbes de Provence
salt and pepper
2 tbsp tomato paste
1 tbsp anchovy paste
1/2 lb kale -- torn and blanched
1/2 tsp ground rosemary
2 c duck stock (chicken stock may be substituted)
2 lemons -- juiced

Heat oven to 300F.

Season lamb generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium high heat until the oil sheets. Heat another couple of minutes then add lamb and brown on all sides, remove to a large bowl. Allow pan to cool for a couple of minutes off the heat and reduce heat to medium. Add onions and brown them, scraping up the fond. Add garlic and cook until fragrant -- about 1 minute longer. Add onions to bowl with lamb.

Add all remaining except stock. and mix thoroughly. Pour mixture into a clay cooker or Dutch oven and add enough stock to fill to the level of the other ingredients. Stir again. Cover and cook in oven for 2 1/2 hours.
Ah well. He's a silly old fart, but what can you do?

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Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Spot-On: Vegetal Grace

Vegetal Grace

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I eagerly anticipate the spring startup of the farmers' markets each year. They begin around the end of April and stretch through to October. There are four in my area, one on Wednesday, one on Thursday, and two on Saturday. I go to the May and June markets more out of hope and longing than expectation. This early in the season the markets are dominated by people selling vegetable "sets" — potted tomato, pepper, and herb plants. Not having a place to nurture these tangible symbols of hope and flavor, my visits are short and disappointing.

You can read the complete article at Spot-On.

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Monday, April 16, 2007

Spot-On: Tools of the Trade

Tools of the Trade

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As a cooking instructor, the single most frequent question I’m asked is, "What kind of pans do you have?"

American's are probably the most brand-conscious consumers in the world. They care about their brand of car, they wear labels on the outside of their clothes (Polo, for instance), they buy Tide detergent when the store brand comes from the same factory, and foodies look for status in the cookware they choose. This isn't to say that the cookware you use can't make a difference in your cooking, but it is to say the importance is over-rated –— and choosing a single brand is often a bad idea.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Monday, April 09, 2007

Spot-On: Rituals

Rituals

Rack of Lamb

On the surface, Easter is a connection with God — the supernatural — but if you look a bit deeper it's about connections with the past, with history. It's a means of asserting our continuity with the past generations that celebrated Easter and, deeper yet, perhaps by accident, with all of the religions that have celebrated the spring solstice. And so, still deeper, with the cycles of planets and stars — the physical universe.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Monday, April 02, 2007

Efficiencies of Scale

Efficiencies of Scale

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"Nationwide panic from a 50-acre field."

This was a recent headline on a blog named The Ethicurean that I regularly read and, although hyperbolic (I'm not sure "panic," is the most accurate term), the headline nevertheless makes its point. What isn't hyperbole is that a single 50-acre field resulted in deaths and illnesses in 26 states.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Monday, March 26, 2007

Sidewalk Meals

Sidewalk Meals

Bratwurst

It was a glorious morning in the summer of 1971 and I was in the midst of an astoundingly beautiful valley in Switzerland bordered on all sides by the Alps. I should have appreciated it more, but I was an impatient 17-year-old, it was hot, and my last ride had dropped me off on a two-lane road in the middle of nowhere two hours before.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Monday, March 19, 2007

A Mindful Task

Corned Beef, Bread, Mustard

I approach the kitchen with dread and a sense of hopelessness having nearly exhausted my ability to find exciting and interesting dishes. I've turned to making sausages and baking bread, to corning beef and simmering stock. And in these ancient tasks I've found small, often unexpected, delights.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Friday, March 16, 2007

Paisano

Paisano

Paisano

Did I mention the Paisano?

In addition to my weekly Spot-On columns I'm also now writing a semi-monthly food column for a social net-working Web community named Gather. Gather, uhmm, "gathered" me in because in it's early days it was focused on quality writing and I'm egotistical enough to think my writing has "quality."

Over the past 15 months I have been regularly reposting older material from SG on the site. No money in it, but it was essentially labor-free publicity for SG, and, then, there were some damned good writers who'd also been sucked in. You may know Farmgirl Susan and kitchenMage as food writers and there are other equally compelling writers on a wide collection of topics (the thing that kept me involved).

This February Gather created a cadre of correspondents on nine key topics, including food, and asked for "auditions" for positions in each category. A total of 60 places were filled from around 2000 applications. Susan, KM, and I were selected to fill three of the nine Food Correspondent slots. And we even make a little direct cash from the gig. Not bad.

One of the things that encouraged me to apply was that, because all of my SG posts were suitable for Gather then my Gather posts would be suitable for SG. Cool! Effectively I get paid for a couple of my SG posts when I republish them here.

And then the demon took over.

In my first Gather column I decided to devote it to peasant foods, gave the column the title "Paisano," and wrote a new lede for a recipe I'd already published here. Fine. No big deal until I got to the second column. Apparently I'd accidentally opened a supernatural conduit between myself and some spirit from Tuscany or Bohemia; maybe North Africa. Spain is a possibility…

I discovered his ambiguous background when writing my second column, but it seemed innocent enough. Then I wrote the third piece, and he began to assert himself. What had I done?

With my last column he was clearly in control. This accidental d'jinn of what writers call a "conceit" had completely relegated me to a role as supernumerary. I feel like Stephen King doing one of his cameos in the movies based on his books.

I've decided to avoid bringing the Paisano here by republishing those columns as I had originally planned. I like this blog and hope to keep it unsullied by culinary or cultural demons. But if a bit of fiction amuses your bouche then the Paisano is an intriguing old reprobate. I'll keep you informed of his future adventures, and if you’d like to see how the accidental invocation of this Old World archetype evolved:

Food for Working
The Kitchen Bowl
Mud-bugs
Lentil Soup

And pray for me.

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Monday, March 12, 2007

Absurdum ad Infinitum

Absurdum ad Infinitum

Crisco

Alas, the state of California, which should know better than to emulate New York City, is considering several state-wide laws to prohibit trans-fats. Not all trans-fats, Dolly Madison cakes are still going to be legal, but that little bakery down the street, call it Susan's Pie Place, that uses Crisco (in addition to real butter) to make the flakiest pie crust you've ever eaten will have to change to the non-trans-fat version.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Monday, March 05, 2007

Culinary Fundamentalism

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Just as there are religious fundamentalists and evangelists, there are food fundamentalists and evangelists. Hell, I may be one — witness my homemade corned beef as an effort to find and, in some way, worship at the shrine of Real Food. After all, the true evangelists call to mind James 2:18, "I will show thee my faith by my works," and so I make corned beef from scratch. The fact that these works of my hands are good at worst and insanely great at best is beside the point. I have shown my faith by making the effort.

Read the whole article at Spot-On.

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Monday, February 26, 2007

American Bred

American Bred

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Some time ago Michael Ruhlman opined that America didn't have a cuisine (I looked, but couldn't find the specific post). I objected to his assertion, but he defended it well. Nevertheless, it's been bothering me since and I finally articulated a response. It's not a broad disputation of his argument because I didn't have space for that, but it's a specific example that I think anyone, with some knowledge of food in this country, can extrapolate from. It's also my latest column on Spot-On.

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Tuesday, February 20, 2007

The Food Police

The Food Police

Feedlot

My latest column is up at Spot-on.com. It's a bit of a rant prompted by a physician's group that wants to ban cheese advertising on children's shows claiming cheese is as much a junk food as, say potato chips or candy bars.

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Monday, February 12, 2007

Belly Battles

Belly Battles

Feedlot

Today Spot-on.com, a Web syndication service published my weekly first column. And I'm pumped.

Spot-on brings together a collection of columnists who offer:
"a range of well-written and smartly argued commentary from a variety of viewpoints. In a world saturated with news and information, where readers like you can make their own news judgments and come to their own conclusions, Spot-On won't tell you what to think or why to think it. Instead, we offer clarity, good-sense and great writing about what matters most, when it matters. Our writers are experienced, smart and opinionated; our information is accurate and smartly presented."
I like being described as experienced, smart, and opinionated. It's about time I was properly recognized.

But aside from the ego strokes, I've been wanting to write more about the politics and culture of food and cooking. However, aside from an occasional essay, Seriously Good wasn't the venue for it. That's not why I created this blog and not where I want this blog to go.

Here, I want you to think about "food," lower case "f," what we eat and why and how we enjoy it. Seriously Good is for your sense of taste, texture, smell, sound, sight, and imagination. Seriously Good is about satisfying your animal.

My columns at Spot-on will be about satisfying your intellect. They will be about "Food" with a capital "F." I'll delve into the politics of food and the posturing of foodies and their institutional enablers. I'll point fingers at the smug — including myself — and reward good sense when I run across it.

But it's not going to be easy so I need your help, if you're willing. My column will appear every Monday at http://www.spot-on.com/weeks/. Please log on and catch my fox passes and illitracies and point them out to me. Tell me when I'm being stupid. Tell me what's bothering you — a weekly column is a major idea drain and I'll need the help.

And hey! Thanks to all of you, the regular commenters and the much, much larger body of regular lurkers, for reading Seriously Good. That matters to me.

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