Monday, September 07, 2009

SG Archives: Meatloaf

Just Like Mom's

Meatloaf

The urge to nostalgia seems universal. We are most aware of it when nostalgia for some aspect of our past becomes fashionable again as with automobiles like the Ford Thunderbird and Chrysler PT Cruiser. And whoever thought we'd see bell bottoms again? (Thank heavens paisley hasn't come back.)

Rituals and traditions are also nostalgia in disguise. The Thanksgiving turkey, Christmas Mass, even birthday parties reflect this desire to reconnect with the past. Lately, diners and diner food have become retro chic. My inclination is to celebrate this effort to taste again the foods we grew up with — except that too often they're that in name only.

The Thanksgiving turkey, Christmas Mass, even birthday parties reflect this desire to reconnect with the past.

Baked whole-wheat rigatoni with gorgonzola cream sauce may be very good, but it's not mac-n-cheese. Avocados, bean sprouts, and turkey pastrami on five grain bread is not a reuben. And barley has no place in meatloaf.

I do confess to having tried a lot of variations in meatloaf over the years adding grated carrots or glazing with plum sauce or using rice for the filler. But the only variation from my mother's meatloaf that has become common in my recipe is making a free-form loaf and wrapping it in bacon. Well, and I usually skip the ketchup glaze, but then, so did my mother. And isn't that the ultimate description of a nostalgic dish: Just like Mom used to make.

Meatloaf
Serves 4.


3/4 lb ground beef
1/4 lb ground pork
1 tsp oil
1/2 md onion — chopped
1 egg
1/4 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 tsp ground mustard
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp worcestershire sauce
1/4 tsp tobasco
1/4 c milk
2/3 c bread crumbs
8 - 10 slices bacon

Heat oven to 350F. Heat oil in a skillet and saute onion until softened. Set aside to cool.

Put meat, bread crumbs, parsley, and onions in a large bowl. In a small bowl mix together all moist ingredients and seasonings. Add to meat mixture and mix thoroughly, being careful, however, not to overwork.

Shape mixture into a loaf and wrap in bacon slices. Cook on a broiler pan for about 1 hour or until center registers 150F. Allow to rest at least 20 minutes before slicing.

Try this Meatloaf with...
Horseradish Mashed Potatoes
Okra
Braised Brussles Sprouts


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Wednesday, October 10, 2007

National Meatloaf Day: Greek Lamb Meatloaf

Let Your Meat Loaf

Lamb Meatloaf

I think I last heard someone say, "Don't let your meat loaf," about 150 years ago, but I may be exaggerating. It could have been longer. Nevertheless, when I was sophomoric it was usually good for a chuckle and, sophomores being sophomores (not tremendously creative) it's probably still good for at least a pained expression from the more sophisticated sophomores (is that an oxymoron?) and a guffaw from the others.

Serious Eats has declared October 18 National Meatloaf Day. And, although I've largely quit participating in such meme-ish events and know well that when Louis Carrol wrote, "And the mome raths outgrabe," he actually meant, "and the meme routes sour grapes," I was tempted to participate in this online event because I love meatloaf, and yet, unlike so many traditional American dishes, this one I feel — for some reason — more than willing to play with.

I think about recipes to put myself to sleep. Don't you?

Some sort of variation seemed called for. Perhaps because I know that meatloaf is only a coarse pâte/terrine, or perhaps because pâte is essentially a peasant dish — whatever the elite chefs have done with it. At any rate, I laid in bed last night thinking about ways to contribute to the meatloaf mome, er, meme. (Yes, I think about recipes to put myself to sleep. Don't you?)

But, I've been focused on lamb of late. I'm trying to develop a lamb sausage and so it seemed like a good time to revisit an idea for lamb loaf given to me by a friend's sister.

The mint and feta give it a Greek flavor, and the tzatziki sauce carries that through nicely. But if I'd really been thinking, I would have found a bottle of retsina to go along with it — and tossed a glug or two into the mix. But I wasn't thinking, I was drifting off to sleep.

Greek Lamb Loaf
Serves 4.
Based on an idea by Maggie Roberts.

1 lb ground lamb
1 tbsp olive oil
3 oz feta, crumbled
1 sm onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves — minced
1/4 c pignoli — toasted
1/4 c bread crumbs
1/4 c chopped fresh mint
2 tbsp minced fresh rosemary
1 egg, lightly beaten
2 tbsp tomato paste
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tsp coarsley ground black pepper (the feta provides salt)

Sautee onion and garlic in olive oil until fragrant and translucent.

Combine all ingredients, shape into a loaf, and bake at 350F until internal temperature is 155F. Allow to rest for 30 minutes before slicing.

Drizzle with tzatziki sauce.

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