Paisano: Lamb Taginewith Fig and Prunes

Name That Dish



The word "tagine" is one of those cases where a cooking vessel has lent its name to the food prepared in it. For example, there's good etymological evidence that the dish "chowder" is named for the French pot named "chaudree" (cauldron) and a "casserole" is (traditionally) a round or oval earthenware container in which a thick stew is made.

The tagine dish is traditionally earthenware and consists of two parts - a lower round dish with 2 to 3-inch sides and a much-larger tall volcano-shaped lid. The food to be cooked goes in the bottom dish with a bit of liquid which is traditionally set over charcoal. The lid creates a steamy environment for cooking where, over a few hours, the liquid is gradually reduced to create a rich sauce. It's really a brilliant bit of culinary technology.

A tagine (the cooking vessel) is used to create a tagine (the meal). The meals are typically lamb, kid, chicken, or vegetarian made with vegetables or fruit, perhaps olives, maybe preserved lemons and always spices.

Tagine, the vessel and meals, are Moroccan — meaning Arabic — meaning the spices can be surprising to Western palates.

Tagine, the vessel and meals, are Moroccan — meaning Arabic — meaning the spices can be surprising to Western palates. Mostly because Arabs use a lot of spices we've come to associate with sweet dishes: cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, ginger… Our Western association isn't unreasonable, these spices do indeed complement sweet flavors, but Arab cuisine often adds sweet tastes to savory dishes and so it's not unusual to find fruit or honey paired with chicken and accented with cinnamon and nutmeg.

I don’t own a tagine, so I can't claim this dish authentic (plus, I made it up and I'm not Arab) but it does capture the spirit of tagines both in flavor and technique. Couscous is a traditional starch with tagines, but potatoes also work well. I'd planned on including dried apricots (mish mish) in this dish, but discovered to my surprise I didn't have any on-hand.

Lamb Tagine with Fig and Prunes
Serves 4.

2 two-pound bone-in lamb shoulders
Salt and coarsely ground black pepper
3 tbsp olive oil
2 medium onions -- diced
4 large garlic cloves -- minced
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp ground tumeric
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1 1/2 - 2 c chicken or lamb broth
4 tbsp tomato paste
2 c dried figs — stems trimmed off
2 c prunes
2 c dried apricots
2 lemons — zested and juiced

Heat oven to 275F.

Generously season shoulders with salt and pepper. Brown on all sides, one at a time, in a dutch oven over medium-high heat - adding additional oil if needed. Set aside.

Reduce heat to medium and add onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until translucent. Stir in minced garlic and all spices and cook one minute more. Add 1/2" of broth and deglaze pot.

Return lamb to pot and add remaining broth (it should come three-quarters of the way up the meat), tomato paste, fruit, and lemon zest.

Increase heat to high and bring just to a boil. Cover and place in oven. Cook 1 hour then turn meat over. Replace lid but leave some space so steam can escape. Cook 1 hour longer and turn meat over again. Note: At this point you may need to add a bit more liquid if it is less than half-way up the meat. Cook 1 hour longer, partially covered. Add lemon juice and serve.

Technorati: Food | recipe | kevin d weeks | gather | main dish | lamb | moroccan

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Paisano: Pinchos Morunos

In April of 711, the Arab governor of Tangiers, Tariq ibn-Ziyad, crossed the strait between what are now Morocco and Spain with an army of 10,000 Berbers. At the time the Iberian peninsula was ruled by the Goths and their king, Roderick, took an army south to repel the Moorish invader, but Tariq and his troops defeated Roderick's army in a battle near the River Guadalete.

Tariq's army then followed the old Roman roads north to the Goths' capital city, Toledo, taking the cities of Ejica and Cordoba along the way. Resistance was minimal, whether reduced by Tariq's intimidatory propaganda (reportedly he'd had group of prisoners cut into pieces and their flesh boiled in cauldrons) or not. The invasion had been ordered by Musa, the governor of North Africa, who joined the invasion the following year with another Berber army of 18,000 -- including a large number of Arab officers. Musa took Medina Sidonia, Seville, and Merida, where a last stand by the Goths failed. And that was more or less that for the next 700 years until the Christians defeated the Moors and drove them out.

Close your eyes and taste the spices swirling across your tongue.

To this day traditional Spanish architecture shows a clear Moorish influence -- so does the cuisine.

Called Pinchos Morunos (Moorish Pointed Stick or Thorns), this recipe, adaped from the Williams-Sonoma Web site, highlights the Moorish influence on Spanish cooking. The Moors didn't eat pork but the Spaniards have, apparently, always loved eating pig. I can imagine the marinade with lamb, but judging by the results I'm positive it has been tweaked over the centuries to specifically complement pork.

These bites of pork are extraordinarily good. Close your eyes and taste the spices swirling across your tongue. One moment they stamp on your taste buds -- a Flamingo dancer pounding a rhythm of sensation, hard heels beating a tattoo with skirts flouncing. Then the flouncing skirts morph into swaying silks and delicate veils and the erotic languor of a belly dance caresses your tongue. Two cultures, choreographed into a seamless dance across the palate. Romancing the nose. Seducing the belly.

Moorish Pork Kabobs (Pinchos Morunos)
Serves 8.

1/2 cup olive oil
3 tbsp ground cumin
2 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp sweet paprika
1 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp salt, plus more, to taste
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 lb pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tbsp minced garlic
1/4 c chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1/4 c fresh lemon juice

Combine the olive oil, cumin, coriander, paprika, cayenne pepper, turmeric, oregano, salt, and pepper in a small skillet over low heat. Cook until warmed through and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature.

Place the pork pieces in a bowl and rub with the spice mixture. Add the garlic, parsley and lemon juice and toss well. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat a cast-iron grill pan over medium-high heat, or prepare a hot fire in a grill.

Thread the meat onto skewers and season with salt. Grill on all sides until just cooked through, 12 - 15 minutes total.

Technorati: Food | recipe | pork | pork kabobs | spain | morrocco | pinchos morunos

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