Monday, December 21, 2009

Pear/Raisin Pie

Deliciously Odd

Pear/Raisin Pie

My cooking tasks for this year's Thanksgiving were a squash soup, rolls, and dessert. The pears seem to have been exceptionally good this fall, or perhaps I've just been in an exceptionally pear frame of mind. But whichever it is I've been eating a lot of them and as I considered desserts for Thanksgiving something involving pears was the first thing that popped into my mind.

I found this recipe at Epicurious and it was distinctly odd — mainly because it looked like it would be good but I couldn't figure out what it would taste like just by reading the recipe. Orange marmalade and vanilla extract? I just had to give it a shot. It was great!

The pears seem to have been exceptionally good that fall, or perhaps I had just been in an exceptionally pear frame of mind.

The marmalade and vanilla disappeared into the background while the brandy added a noticeable richness. The flavor of pear permeated the entire dessert like a blanket of snow on a landscape. If you, like me, are already considering Christmas dinner, I highly recommend it.

Pear/Raisin Pie
Serves 8.


Pastry for double-crust pie

6 tbls orange marmalade
1/4 c (packed) raisins
2 tbls sugar
2 tbls brandy
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp ground cloves
2 1/4 lb firm Anjou or Bosc pears -- peeled, cored, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
1 tbls cornstarch
1 egg yolk beaten with 2 teaspoons milk (for glaze)

Heat oven to 400F.

Heat marmalade and brandy in a small pan over low heat, stirring to blend. Mix marmalade mixture in a large bowl with raisins, sugar, vanilla extract, and spices. Add pears and cornstarch and mix.

Roll out dough for bottom crust, lay in a pie plate, and mound with pear mixture. Roll out dough for upper crust and cover pie, sealing edges. Brush the top of the pie with the egg glaze and cut slits in it to release steam.

Bake on the center rack of the oven for about 50 minutes; cool.

Try this pie with...
Lamb Daube
Osso Bucco
Austrian Pork Chops


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Saturday, March 14, 2009

Buttermilk Pie with
Lemon/Mint Sauce

Country Eats

Buttermilk Pie

A few years ago I had lunch at Miss Mary Bobo's Boarding House in Lynchburg, Tennessee. Miss Bobo's is no longer a boarding house although it is a lovely old two-story ante-bellum mansion that began life as a hotel before becoming a boarding house in 1908 when Mary Bobo and her husband, Jack, took over. Today the place is owned by Jack Daniels Distillery and serves traditional Southern fare such as fried chicken, turnip greens, fried okra, and stewed apples. Meals are served family style - there were 12 of us at my table - and as in most families bowls of food are passed around the table. There were three or four desserts available and I tried the only one I'd never had: Buttermilk Pie.

One of the blogs I ran across said that the vanilla-flavored version was more Southern while the lemon-flavored version was Northern.

I'd heard of buttermilk pie before, a custard pie featuring buttermilk, but this was the first time I'd run across it. Frankly, it was too sweet for my taste, but I figured the sugar could be toned down and I really liked the buttermilk tang. So I made a mental note to find a recipe and try it again. A few days ago I finally got around to it.

As usual, I looked up a lot of recipes and found they all fell into two basic categories, one flavored with vanilla and the other with lemon. One of the blogs I ran across said that the vanilla-flavored version was more Southern while the lemon-flavored version was Northern. The lemon intrigued me because when I'd had it at Miss Bobo's I'd been vaguely reminded of Shaker Lemon Pie, but I figured I should go with the Southern style an use vanilla. Nevertheless, I couldn't get that added lemon bite out of my head, so I decided to make a lemon sauce as a topping.

Buttermilk Pie with Lemon/Mint Sauce
Serves 8.

1 1/4 c buttermilk
4 eggs
3/4 c sugar
2 tbsp flour, plus a little for dusting
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/2 c melted butter
1 unbaked 9-inch pie shell
Lemon/Mint Sauce:
1 c water
1/2 c sugar
2 tbsp cornstarch
dash salt
1 c water
2 tbsp butter
2 tsp finely grated lemon peel
2 tbsp lemon juice
1/4 tsp mint extract
2 or 3 drops yellow food coloring (optional)

Heat oven to 325F.

Lightly beat eggs then whisk in sugar and flour. Add buttermilk, nutmeg, and vanilla and mix. Whisk in melted butter.

Dust the unbaked pie shell with a little bit of flour. Pour batter into shell, and then sprinkle a little more flour on top. Bake until the custard is set, 60 - 70 minutes. (The pie is set when the center no longer jiggles.)

Cool on a wire rack.

Lemon/Mint Sauce:
In a saucepan, combine sugar, cornstarch and salt. Stir in water and cook over medium low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture boils. Remove from heat and add remaining ingredients. Stir until butter is melted and mixture is well blended.


Try these buttermilk desserts too:
Buttermilk Pudding
Buttermilk/Pineapple Sherbet

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Sunday, February 15, 2009

Lemon Chiffon Pie

Light and Luscious

Lemon Chiffon Pie

A couple of weeks ago I posted a photo of one of my "goto" desserts - a quick and easy icebox lime pie. I refused to publish the recipe on Seriously Good - it isn't. I wrote the recipe off as having, "no art, no style, and not a smidgeon of self-respect," and promised to post my recipe for Key Lime Chiffon Pie.

Jackie, a friend of mine, wanted to know what the difference is between the Icebox Lime Pie I pictured and the chiffon pie I promised to post a recipe for. In fact, the difference is art, style, and self-respect. A proper chiffon pie doesn't contain sweetened condensed milk. It's body comes from a sauce made using egg yolks. This sauce is then lightened with whipped egg whites and cream. Genuine fresh key limes are used instead of the bottled stuff and the mixture sets because of gelatin instead of the canned milk. It is light, even etheral, and one of the best things on earth.

A proper chiffon pie is light, even etheral, and one of the best things on earth.

Sadly, I've been having trouble finding fresh key limes. They're not an ingredient I can rely on around here, and so I elected to do a Lemon Chiffon Pie instead. I prefer the darker pungency of key limes to lemons, but this is still an excellent recipe and is essentially my Key Lime Chiffon Pie recipe.

Lemon Chiffon Pie
Serves 8.

Crust:
1 1/4 c graham cracker crumbs
2 1/2 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp grated lemon zest (or key lime zest)
4 1/2 tbsp butter — melted
Filling:
1 c water
1/2 c sugar
Zest from 1 lg. lemon (or one Persian lime)
1 (1/4 oz) envelope unflavored gelatin
1/3 c fresh lemon juice (or key lime juice*)
1/2 c sugar
2 eggs — separated
1 tbsp grated lemon zest (or key lime zest)
1 c whipping cream
1 tsp vanilla

Crust:
Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Thoroughly combine the graham cracker crumbs, sugar, grated zest, and butter in a medium bowl. Press into the bottom (only) of a 9-inch springform pan. Bake for 8 minutes. Set the crust on a wire rack to cool.

Once completely cooled, gently remove springform side, line side with plastic wrap (to minimize later sticking), and re-attach to base.

Filling:
Peel a lemon with a vegetable peeler removing only the zest.

Combine the water and 1/4 cup sugar in a small saucepan and heat to a simmer. Stir in the lemon zest and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain and reserve.

Place lemon zest on a piece of aluminum foil and sprinkle lightly with sugar (I used a coarse decorative sugar).

Cool syrup to about 90 degrees (noticeably warm, but not hot) and sprinkle the gelatin over the syrup. Let it soften for 1 minute. Stir in the lemon juice, lemon zest, and the 2 egg yolks. Stir over low heat until the mixture is thick and frothy (10 minutes). Transfer to a large bowl and cool to room temperature.

Beat the egg whites and 2 tablespoons of the sugar with an electric mixer until stiff.

In another bowl, whip the cream, vanilla, and 2 tablespoons sugar until thick. Mix 1/3 of the whipped cream into the lemon sauce mixture to lighten.

Add remaining whipped cream and egg whites to bowl and fold into until the mixture is smooth (don't overwork it though). Spoon it into the prepared crust and chill, uncovered, until firm (2 to 3 hours).

Garnish with sugared lemon peel and a light sprinkle of finely minced mint.
*Note: The best way to juice key limes is to cut them in half then use a garlic press to squeeze out the juice.

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Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Cornish Pastie

A Handful of Delight

Cornish Pasties

Pulled from the oven, the golden, pregnant crescents glisten with butter. The pastry is so flakey while hot it can barely maintain its shape. Savory steam escapes from vents filling the kitchen with the smell of onions and beef. I break a pie in half, engendering a new burst of steam and revealing pearly bits of onion, orange shreds of carrots, golden smudges of potato, and juicy browned beef. It's too hot to eat but, unable to resist any longer, I tear off a bite and blow on it before popping it in my mouth. Still too hot, but delicious anyway.

In "Sidewalk Meals" I wrote about my introduction to Cornish Pasties. I was addicted from my first bite and ate them frequently while I was in England. In fact, if I had pictures of my time in England you would probably have a shot of me at Buckingham Palace, pastie in hand; wandering up the lane at Windsor Palace, brushing pastie crumbs off my shirt; surveying Stonehenge, mouth full of pastie.

If the English can survive their food, they can survive anything. ~ Geroge Bernard Shaw

I did eat and enjoy other things. The fish and chips were good except for the chips (chips shouldn't be soggy, so dousing them with vinegar is just a bad idea). I liked Bangers and Mash. Spotted Dick isn't bad — once you get past the mental image. I ate lots of cheese, though I was seriously underwhelmed by the bread (having reached England from France). For the most part I ate pub food and for the most part it was fine, if not great — except for the pasties. They were superb.

Returning to the states, I attempted to duplicate my favorite English meal and eventually largely succeeded, if not in duplicating, then in producing something as good. But when it came to the crust I liked mine both more and less. What I had in England was usually tough and heavy, an industrial strength pastry suitable for carrying down into a mine, but not ideal under less stressful circumstances. I made a more typical American piecrust, something light and flakey. The texture was a genuine improvement in my book, but the flavor wasn't quite right.

Over the years I played with the crust, adding herbs (a good move), using just vegetable shortening without butter (a bad move), but there was always something missing. Then at a Cooks Bash I was discussing my efforts with an English friend and he said, "Lard. You've got to use lard." I tried lard (for the first time in my life) and he was right, that was the flavor I was missing. At long last I had a pastie recipe I was completely happy with.

So, in honor of St. George's Day (April 23) and dedicated to my two favorite English bloggers (Sam of Becks and Posh and Andrew of Spittoon Extra), I offer below my recipe for Cornish Pasties as part of Sam's Fish & Quips event.

Cornish Pasty
Pastry — click here
Filling:
1/2 lb ground chuck roast
1 c potatoes — 1/2" dice
1 lg carrot — shredded
1 c yellow onions — diced fine
1 1/2 tsps dried thyme
1 tsp mustard powder
1 1/2 tsps dried sage
3 good splashes of Worcestershire sauce
1/2 c beef broth
1 tsp salt
3/4 tsp cracked black pepper
Egg Wash:
1 ea egg yolk
1 tbsp milk

Heat oven to 375F.

Put diced potatoes and 1/2 inch of water in a covered microwave dish and cook in microwave until potatoes are just tender - seven to eight minutes. Drain potatoes and dump into a large bowl. Mash coarsely with a fork.

Add ground beef and all remaining ingredients to the potatoes and mix thoroughly.

Roll the pastry out to a 1/8 inch thickness on a lightly floured board. Using a five inch round plate as a template, cut as many circles as you can. The scraps can be combined and rolled out one more time. You should have nine to ten rounds.

Moisten half the edge of a pastry round and place about 1/3 cup of the filling in the center. Fold the round over the filling and press the edges to seal. Repeat for remaining pastry and filling. Arrange pasties on a pair of foil covered baking sheets.

Mix egg yolk and milk together and brush glaze over pasties. Cut two one inch slits in the top of each pastie and bake for 35 - 40 minutes or until golden.
These are wonderful for supper on a cold winter night served with potato chowder, boiled cabbage, and beer. If you're going to eat them hot then place a slice of cheddar cheese on top of each pastie that will be eaten that night about ten minutes before the pasties are done.

They're as good at room temperature as they are hot, so they also make great picnic fare. Cold hard cider is a great beverage for washing them down.

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Sunday, February 25, 2007

Steak & Mushroom Pie

Pie Happens

Steak and Mushroom Pie

I pictured a mound of overlapping circles of golden-brown potatoes strewn with sprigs of green. Instead, I ended up with a single circle of potatoes surrounding a bird's nest of potato strips. Such are the uncertainties of creation.

This month Jeanne at CookSister is playing the role of hostess for the online event, Waiter, there's something in my... Pie!. WTSIM is an online event being conducted by Jeanne, Johanna of The Passionate Cook and Andrew at Spittoon Extra. Each month they pick a theme and invite bloggers to submit recipes — this month the theme is pies, either sweet or savory.

Four and twenty black birds, baked in a pie...

I have a deep-seated fondness for pies in almost any form, and recently published an article at Kitchen Window on NPR's Web site about pot pies. It was while reading about this version of WTSIM that I had my vision. I imagined a steak and mushroom pie, flavored with juniper and rosemary, and encased in a "pastry" of sliced potaoes — a twist on the English cottage pie.

I checked the rules and the only real restriction was that the pie had to be enclosed. No problem, I thought. I jotted down my ideas — a proto-recipe — and got to work.

In general the pie came together smoothly and much as I'd envisioned, with one exception. I underestimated the number of potatoes I'd need and at the end found I didn't have enough potato slices to cover the top. My solution was to rinse the peelings and cover the center with them. I knew they were thin enough to cook completely in the oven, but I didn't anticipate them curling up into light delicious potato chips — hence the birds nest in the center.

Steak and Mushroom Pie

3 ea md. Yukon gold potatoes
2 ea sm. carrots — cut into 1/2” dice
3 tbsp olive oil
1 lb sirloin — sliced very thin and seasoned with salt and pepper
1/2 lb baby portabella mushrooms — sliced
1/2 ea lg. onion — diced
1/2 c cut, frozen Italian beans
1 tbsp juniper berries — crushed
1/2 tsp dried thyme
salt and pepper to taste
2 tsp fresh rosemary — minced
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 1/2 c beef stock
1/2 c red wine
3 tbsp butter — melted

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Peel (reserving peelings) and slice potatoes into 1/8 inch thick rounds. Add potatoes to water and cook until just tender — about 5 minutes. Scoop out potatoes and drain, reserving water. Bring pot back to a boil and toss in diced carrots. Cook until tender — about 10 minutes. Drain.

Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Brown sliced meat in two batches and save in the pot you cooked the potatoes and carrots in.

Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet and reduce heat to medium. Add mushrooms, onion, thyme, juniper, and minced rosemary to the skillet and cook until mushrooms have given up most of their liquid. Add mixture to steak.

Heat oven to 400F.

Pick the end pieces from the potatoes and mash — You need about 1/3 cup of mashed potatoes.

Deglaze skillet with wine and reduce by half. Add stock and reduce by 1/3. Stir in mashed potatoes. Add to meat mixture along with carrots and frozen beans. Mix thoroughly.

Line a pie plate with overlapping slices of potato. Add meat mixture to pie. Cover outside edge of the pie with overlapping slices of potatoes. Rinse and dry about hlf the potatoe peelings and layer those over the center. Drizzle potatoes and peelings with melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Strip the leaves from the sprig of rosemary and sprinkle over the top.

Cook on the middle rack of the oven for 35 - 45 minutes until lightly browned.

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