Chorizo Empanadas

Enticing Edibles



When I was in Spain a few years back with my family celebrating my parents' 50th wedding anniversary, we had a lot of excellent restaurant meals in addition to the meals we fixed ourselves at the villa we stayed in. One thing we didn't eat in Spain was tapas.

I'd been looking forward to trying tapas in Spain since my first visit to a tapas place in DC a couple of years earlier. But every time I'd bring the subject up — and I brought it up several times — my mother immediately squashed the idea. I've no idea why.

It turns out that empanadas are primarily a Latin American dish. I only found one Spanish recipe in my searching.

So I was surprised a couple of weeks ago when she called and said she was having a tapas party and would I make empanadas for it. I've still no idea why she was so opposed to tapas in Spain — and I'm 90 percent sure she wouldn't remember it as I do so I haven't asked. But I've been meaning to make empanadas for some time and this, obviously, was the perfect excuse.

It turns out that empanadas are primarily a Latin American dish. I only found one Spanish recipe in my searching. But who cares? They would certainly make nice two-bite morsels suitable for munching with a glass of sherry or wine and it would be easy enough to create a recipe that tasted more of Spain than Honduras or Cuba so that's what I did.

They turned out fine if not excellent, the main problem with them was the Spanish Chorizo. Although I cut it into a little dice — a tad over 1/8 inch — the pieces were still too chewy. So in the recipe below I recommend coarsely processing the sausage to make the overall texture of the empanadas more palatable.

Chorizo Empanadas
Makes about 16 small empanadas.

Pastry for two crust pie
4 oz Spanish chorizo
1/2 md. Spanish onion — 1/4" dice (about 1/2 c)
1/4 red bell pepper — 1/4" dice (about 1/2 c)
1 yellow potato (about 3" in diameter)
1/2 tsp dried Herbes de Province
1/2 tsp coarse salt
1/4 tsp black pepper
1/4 c chicken stock
2 tbsp white wine
1 egg
Smoked Spanish paprika

Make pastry, divide in half, form into flattened balls, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate.

Peel and cut potato into 3/4" dice. Place in a covered, microwave-safe container and cook on high for about 5 minutes or until fork tender. Drain, rinse, and cool. Mash coarsely with fork.

Cut chorizo into 1/4" dice and process until coarsely chopped in a food processor. In a large bowl, thoroughly mix potato, chorizo, onion, bell pepper, herbs, salt, pepper, chicken stock, and wine. Mixture should be slightly moist but not wet — you may need to add a bit more wine.

Heat oven to 400F.

Roll out pastry as for pie crust and cut into 3" diameter circles (I used a glass and knife to cut the rounds). Moisten half the edge of a round (I find my finger, dipped in a small bowl of water works best), place a rounded tablespoon of filling toward the moistened edge, fold other side over, and crimp edges with fingers to seal. Place filled empanadas on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Beat egg with a tablespoon of water and brush tops of the empanadas with the mixture. Cut a slit in the top of each pastry and then sprinkle lightly with paprika. Bake about 30 minutes or until lightly browned. Makes about 30 empanadas.

These are good hot, but also at room temperature. They should freeze well, unbaked, and I would put them unthawed in a 400F oven for 40 - 45 minutes to bake.

Here are few more tapas/meze/hors d'ouevres...
Duck Rillettes
Country Pate
Saganaki

Originally published November 17, 2006.

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Super Bowl Munchies

Although I suppose it's possible for me to be less interested in the Super Bowl than I am, but it's hard to imagine and this coming February 7 I'll probably watch a movie. Nevertheless Super Bowl Sunday is the second biggest "food consumption" event in the US - second only to Thanksgiving. So just in case you are a football fan or married to one I thought I'd offer some ideas for munchies to eat on game day.

Deviled Eggs" I adore deviled eggs and am quite capable of eating half a dozen (three whole eggs) at once. So I don't make them very often. There are two keys to deviled eggs, the first is to use older eggs (at least two weeks old). Older eggs are far easier to peel than fresh eggs because the membrane attaching the shell to the white weakens with age (and note, eggs will easily keep a month in the refrigerator so the eggs will be perfectly fine).

Sausage Balls: I used to make sausage balls every year around Christmas when I was growing up, and the I completely forgot about them until a couple of Christmases ago. They were every bit as greasy and delicious as I remembered. I got to thinking, they'd be a great addition to the Super Bowl because although they're best hot, they're also good at room temperature.

Feta-stuffed Peppers: These little bites are not only delicious, but they're easy to make and as good at room temperature or cold as they are warm. Because of their ease and flexibility they’re one of my favorite picnic foods in addition to being a great amuse Bouche. You can also substitute chèvre for the feta and use other herbs.

Stuffed Mushrooms: Instead of being stuffed with crab or shrimp these muchrooms are stuffed with pancetta, sun-dried tomatoes, and Parmigiano. I developed this recipe for a particular client and they were a real hit at her party and at subsequent parties when I've served them.

Hummus bi Tahini: I make up a batch of hummus for snacking on about once a month. Sometimes I eat it on pita triangles and other times on carrot or celery sticks - and I'm above just sticking my finger in it and sucking on my finger. My recipe is a bit tart and slightly spicy and I'm addicted to it.

Sausage Rolls: Sausage rolls are a fixture in English pubs - or at least they were when I was in England. And although my great love was Cornish pasties sometimes I'd get a couple of sausage rolls as a snack, and they were my standard breakfast when I was attending highland games.

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Deviled Eggs

A Perfect Munchie



I adore deviled eggs and am quite capable of eating half a dozen (three whole eggs) at once. So I don't make them very often. There are two keys to deviled eggs, the first is to use older eggs (at least two weeks old). Older eggs are far easier to peel than fresh eggs because the membrane attaching the shell to the white weakens with age (and note, eggs will easily keep a month in the refrigerator so the eggs will be perfectly fine). Note: Chop up the whites instead of stuffing them and mix with the yolks and you have an excellent egg salad.

The second key is avoiding that green band around the yolk. The band is composed of sulfur compounds created by cooking the egg at too high a temperature. But a perfect hardboiled egg isn't hard to make at all:

1. Place eggs in a single layer in the bottom of a saucepan.
2. Cover with water to a depth of one inch.
3. Bring water just to a boil over medium-high heat.
4. Remove from heat, cover, and let sit for 17 minutes.
5. Cool eggs in an ice water bath to stop the cooking.
6. Once cooled, peel.

Deviled Eggs
Makes 12 servings.

12 hardboiled eggs
1 - 2 tbsp mayonnaise (depending on your preference)
1 tbsp. Dijon mustard
Juice of a small lemon
3 tbsp finely minced fresh dill
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper to taste

Cut eggs in half and dump yolks in a small mixing bowl.Add remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly (I use an electric mixer). Taste and adjust flavors. Spoon into yolk mixture into whites and serve.

Technorati: Food | recipe | kevin d weeks | seriously good | Deviled Eggs | appetizers | eggs

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Party Hors d'Oeuvres

It's party season and most of us will be invited to at least one party where we have to take something and my favorite things to take - whether it's to a cocktail-style party or a dinner party is hors d'oeuvres. Hors d'Oeuvre literally means "out of hours" — a reference to the fact these flavorful tidbits are not eaten at a meal. Traditionally the French don't snack or eat at all outside of mealtimes at which time they sit down and have a proper meal (although a proper meal may simply be a croissant and cup of coffee), so these little treats are eaten outside of meals — outside of proper eating times.

Some of these recipes can be completely prepared in advance while others only need a few minutes in an oven. These are all finger foods, suitable for eating with no fancier implement than a cocktail napkin.

Enticing Empanadas: Empanadas, at least the finger-sized version, are primarily a Latin American dish. I only found one Spanish recipe in my searching — which surprised me. They certainly make nice two-bite morsels suitable for munching with a glass of sherry or wine and, because I was catering a tapas party, I though it would be easy enough to create a recipe that tasted more of Spain than Honduras or Cuba so that's what I did.

Duck Rillettes: Rillettes are made from confit, which is some kind of meat (rabbit, pork, goose, or in this case, duck) slowly cooked — eseentially poached — in fat and then pounded into a paste. Confit is an old method of preserving meat, very much a peasant dish in origin and rillettes, spread on bread or crackers, is a great and simple way to enjoy it.

Sausage Balls: I was nine or 10 when I got the assignment: make sausage balls. I suspect I brought it on myself. My memory from so long ago is fuzzy but I seem to recall lobbying my mother to make them one Christmas (she must have made them the previous year) and, as she was wont to do, her response was, "If you want them, you make them." I've made them every year since then — making them the only dish I've ever made so long and so consistently.

Humus bi Tahini: Every time I make humus I'm reminded of an elegant (there's that word again) Lebanese lady who once told me I made the best humus she'd eaten in the US. She said, "It's tart, but not sour. It has good garlic, but not too much. I like the 'pepperness.'" Here is a dish that couldn't be more humble or more common. But it also has an elegance of flavor. Serve with crudities and triangles of pita bread.

Stuffed Mushrooms:
I developed this recipe for a client who has both celiac disease and an allergy to shell fish. I didn't have to make stuffed mushrooms, but I'd fixated on the idea of mushrooms being part of the overall mixture of finger foods I was making — and important pasrt of the complete picture of flavor, texture, and temperature. So I skipped the bread crumbs and subbed pancetta and sun-dried tomato for the shrimp or crab. Delicious.

Southern Pâté: I can't abide most liver (I do like foie gras) so I usually avoid pâtés. But I came across a liver-free recipe a few years ago and decided to tweak it into a recipe for a Southerm pât&eactue;. It turned out beautifully. I've served it with rye cocktail bread and with toast points, but I like it best with little bite-sized biscuits.

Technorati: Food | recipe | kevin d weeks | seriously good | party | tapas meze

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Artichoke Tapenade

"A" is for Artichoke



I usually eat lunch around noon and supper around 8:00, which means I get hungry half way through the afternoon. So I have a snack. Cheese and crackers is a favorite as is cheese and salami - I usually have two or three cheeses in my fridge. Focaccia makes a great mid-afternoon snack if I've made a batch lately (by the way, this Rosemary/Grape Focaccia is my all-time favorite). And this Prosciutto Bread also make an out standing snack. Hummus is one of my all-time favorite pick-me-ups with a round of warm pita bread.

This is both quick and easy to make and will keep for three or four days in the refrigerator.

The idea in most cases being something I can eat with my fingers and yet won't get my fingers too greasy because I'm usually working at the computer when I eat the snack. However I've broken that rule the last few days because I made up a batch of Artichoke Tapenade and it drips all over everything. I first had this tapenade when I bought a jar of it at Copia, the now-defunct Museum of Food and Wine in Napa, California. Because Copia was a good three-hour drive from my house in Sacramento I had to come up with my own recipe.

This is both quick and easy to make and will keep for three or four days in the refrigerator (I would hesitate to keep it longer than that because of the raw garlic in it). Lately I've been eating it on a loaf of ciabatta and the large holes are good at keeping spillage down - but it's still a mess to eat.

Off subject: Kathy at Panini Happy recently hosted a grilled cheese contest and oddly enough, I won. I say "oddly" because my submission was as basic as it could be - albeit with an anal-obsessive attention to detail.

Artichoke Tapenade

1 15-oz. can artichoke hearts
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 roasted red bell pepper
1 sm. lemon; zested and juiced
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves or 1 tsp. dried*
1 Tbsp, fresh parsley; finely chopped
1 clove garlic; finely chopped
1/2 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. capers

Drain artichoke hearts and chop coarsely in a food processor with roasted pepper. Then stir in all remaining ingredients, including lemon juice and zest. Taste and adjust flavors to suit and allow mixture to sit for four hours to meld the flavors

*Note: You can substitute oregano, marjoram, chervil, or tarragon.

Technorati: Food | recipe | kevin d weeks | seriously good | artichoke | snack | appetizer | tapas

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Munchies, Tapas, & Hors d'Oeuvres

'Tis the Season to Party



When I was growing up my parents often had cocktail parties - in fact they often had parties, period. But I particularly remember the cocktail parties with their large collection of munchies. There was of course the obligatory plate of crudities with Lipton Onion Soup dip and there were smoked oysters (which I absolutely craved) and Swedish Meatballs figured prominently. They usually offered a cheese plate and went a step beyond the common cheese ball by offering a real selection of imported cheeses from a mail-order company in New York.

As I recall, we were invited to attend the parties if we wished, but we had to keep quiet . In fact we were always encouraged to associate with adults, but to remember we weren't adults and, unless asked, no one cared about our interests so don't volunteer. Pretty much "be seen and not heard."

These days one of the most popular classes I teach is titled, "Tapas, Mezethes, & Small Bites." That's about the most accurate title you can imagine because I include a few tapas recipes, a few recipes for Greek and Middle-Eastern Mezethes, and a few other things that are distinguished by the fact they are only a bite or two in size. It's also one of my favorite classes because it reminds me of those parties when I was a child.

So given that it's party season, I thought I'd offer a round up of some of my favorite party munchies.

Feta-Stuffed Peppers: This is one of my go-to recipes. They're easy to make, easy to modify, they can be made in advance because they're as good at room temperature as they are warm, and they're bright and colorful on a platter served with pickles and olives. They always surprise guests who haven't had them before and they always disappear before the party's over.

Tuna-Deviled Eggs: Everyone loves deviled eggs and although the idea of tuna in deviled eggs initially puts some people off, once they try them they're convinced. This is a Greek meze but I tweaked my version by adding smoked, hot Spanish paprika to the yolk and tuna mixture. The hot paprika provides the deviling with an added fillip of smokiness that I think rounds these eggs out beautifully. These are easily made a day in advance.

Prosciutto Gougeres: Although gougeres are at their absolute best when pulled, just-baked, from the oven and served, they're still pretty damned good made in advance and reheated. You can make them a day early and refrigerate them overnight, then reheat them in a 350F oven, or you can even freeze them for a few weeks, then heat them up just before serving.

Prosciutto & Chevre Canapes: As long as you're buying prosciutto, buy a bit more and make these canapés. You simply mix together chèvre and minced prosciutto and spread it on slices of baguette. Garnish with a parsley leaf or twist of lemon peel. This recipe is completely my invention, but is based on the tubes of ham and cheese spread you can find in Europe.

Duck Rillettes: This very French appetizer requires a lot of effort, at least it does if you're making your own duck confit. But Oh My God! Spread on a baguette (such as those you bought for the canapés above) they are heaven on earth. You can also get duck confit mail-order from companies such as d'Artagnon or Hudson Valley Foie Gras. I make my own confit so I don't know how good those products are, but I do know and respect both companies.

Ceci Fritos: Fried Chickpeas are addictive - especially warm from the skillet. They can be made in advance and keep well for a day or two, but because it only takes about 7 or 8 minutes to make them if you have access to a stove then make them at the last minute (you can prep them in advance).

Stuffed Mushrooms: I know, I know. They're old hat, overworked, and certainly nothing to write home about. Except these aren't. Choosing an Italian accent, I stuff these with a mixture of pancetta and sun-dried tomatoes. They get raves and I've been told more than once, "They’re the best stuffed mushrooms I've ever had." I suspect that's as much a reflection of how expected most such recipes have become as a true statement, but surprise is a genuine element of excellent food so I nod and say, "Thanks."

Technorati: Food | recipe | kevin d weeks | seriously good | appetizers | tapas | meze

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Paisano: Treats on the 4th

Paisano: Treats on the 4th



A few years back when I lived was living in Eugene, Oregon I got a call from the Paisano the last week of June. It was an odd call. First he didn't really sound like himself — there was something funny in his voice. He sounded off. Second, he wanted to know if he could come for a visit.

Although I didn't know him as well then, I did know the Paisano never asks if he can visit and certainly never offers warning. He either shows up on my doorstep or calls me to come pick him up at the nearest airport, bus station, train station, or even gas station. On this occasion, he said if I didn't mind (didn't mind?) he would like to visit for a spell and thought he'd take the train up from California in a couple of days if that was Ok. WTF?

"In my family I am the baby so you must be my younger brother. When I am dying, bring food."

I said sure, come on. What else could I say? I picked him up at the train station on Sunday afternoon, July 2.

As usual I got a bear hug and kiss on both cheeks. As usual his baggage was a single military canvas duffle bag (no insignia, only the scar of a badge and a bleached section to leave you wondering which military). As usual his grey hair was a bit shaggy and his beard was immaculately trimmed. But on the drive back to my apartment he was a bit less ebullient than usual, his laugh a tad less hearty. When I asked if he knew how long he was staying he said he had to be in Vancouver at the end of the week.

July 4 was on a Tuesday that year, and I'd arranged to take Monday off to prepare for a party I was having on the 4th. I lived about half a mile from the University of Oregon stadium and each 4th the stadium hosts a big fireworks display — I had a near perfect viewing spot in my backyard. I figured we'd have a collection of munchies while watching the fireworks and then come back inside to eat dinner.

Sunday evening we talked about the party and menu. Paisano, as a matter of course, wanted to change everything, but gave up surprisingly easily when I resisted. So I told him I wasn't happy with the "bites" I'd planned on munching on while watching the fireworks and asked him to come up with something. We spent the rest of the evening tossing ideas back and forth and then went grocery shopping Monday morning.

I knew better than to push him about his problem. He puts Dick Cheney's secretiveness to shame. If I asked a direct question I'd get a direct answer — but maybe not a true answer. With the Paisano you listen between the lines and if he trusts you and wants to, he'll tell you. It took until Tuesday when we were prepping for the party for him to start talking.

With a chefs knife in a one hand, a glass of wine in the other, and array of ingredients spread across the counter, he began to talk.

His oldest brother, Michael, was dying of kidney disease in a hospital in Vancouver. They were close, but the connection didn't occur until Paisano was grown up, ten years was far too much distance to overcome as children. And, perhaps because the connection had come so late, it was particularly fierce. And now my friend was going to Canada to say goodbye. This was not something he was good at.

Eventually the guests arrived for my party bringing blankets and lawn chairs. Paisano immediately ditched me to handle the final dinner prep on my own while he served his hors d'ouevres, made new friends, and watched the fireworks.

Paisano made a half dozen meze or tapas, but these two were the most popular. They would be perfect to munch on July 4.

Stuffed Cherry Tomatoes

24 large cherry tomatoes
4 oz chèvre
2 tbsp mince basil (or oregano, chives, tarragon, …)
2 tbsp finely minced red onion
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp white pepper

Remove tops of tomatoes and core (a demitasse spoon is perfect for this task). In a small bowl combine all other ingredients then stuff into empty tomatoes. Serve at room temperature. (Note: these are best if the tomatoes are never chilled, but they can be chilled for picnics and such.)

Tuna Stuffed Eggs

6 hardboiled eggs — shelled and cut in half
1 can oil-packed tuna
2 tbsp finely-minced red onion
2 tbsp mayonnaise
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp lemon juice
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp smoked hot Spanish paprika

In a small bowl beat together the egg yolks and all other ingredients until smooth. Spoon into hollowed out egg whites. Chill and serve.

The next morning when I woke my friend had already made coffee and had eggs ready for an omelet. He was back to himself again: "I told J.D. you might be late today and he said that was ok. We must go to the store again. I need to cook for Michael." J.D. was my boss and had been at the party the night before. Arranging my schedule with my boss (and without consulting me) was pure Paisano.

So we went to the store, came back and spent the day making Michael's favorite foods — "I can't cure him, but I can feed him" — and around 5:00 that evening I put the Pasisano on the train to Vancouver. When we parted he hugged me with particular vigor.

"In my family I am the baby so you must be my younger brother. When I am dying, bring food."

I will, brother.

Note: Pasisano is a fictional character created for a column published twice monthly on Gather.com.

Technorati: Food | recipe | paisano | deviled eggs | stuffed tomatoes | appetizers | hors d'ouevres | tapas | meze

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Feta-stuffed Peppers

Making a Meze



Last week was hellishly busy and up until today, so has this week. That's a good thing because it means I'm making money, but by last Saturday I was a vegetable and that was my only break before today. All of which is by way of explaining why it's been so long since I posted something real here.

The killer last week was a meze party on Friday evening for 25. Meze is the Middle-Eastern name for what the Spanish call tapas and I spent all day Thursday and Friday making "small bites." The menu consisted of:

Keftedes –— Greek meatballs
Marinated Lamb Kabobs
Hummus with pita and vegetables
Stuffed Peppers
Dolmades

You better cut the pizza in four pieces because I'm not hungry enough to eat six. ~ Yogi Berra


Lemon-marinated Chicken Strips
Tuna-stuffed Deviled Eggs
Fried Kefalotyri (cheese)
Orange/Yogurt Cake

It was a good selection of dishes and, aside from the dolmades falling apart during cooking (which prompted a substitution of mushroom crostini) the prep went smoothly. Although there was plenty of food, no food came back on plates meaning everyone liked everything they ate and while there was a bit of food leftover, everything was tried.

Ordinarily when I do these affairs I don't have time to take photos, but I've been wanting to post the recipe for these stuffed peppers for a couple of years now. These little bites are not only delicious, but they're easy to make and as good at room temperature or cold as they are warm. Because of their ease and flexibility they’re one of my favorite picnic foods in addition to being a great amuse Bouche. You can also substitute chèvre for the feta and use other herbs.

Feta-stuffed Peppers

3 ea lg. bell peppers (assorted colors)
6 oz feta chesse –— crumbled
1/2 ea lemon –— juiced
1/4 c minced red onion
3 tbsp minced fresh dill
1 ea egg –— beaten

Heat oven to 375F.

Stem the peppers and cut into eighths, top to bottom. Remove pith and seeds. Cut eighths in half cross-wise.

Mix all remaining ingredients in a small bowl with a fork, crushing any large chunks of cheese. Spoon about a tablespoon of the cheese mixture into each pepper segment and arrange on a baking sheet. Bake on the middle rack until cheese begins to brown – about 15 minutes.

Serve hot, warm, room temperature, or cold.

Technorati: Food | recipe | meze | tapas | appetizer | hors d'ouevres | picnic | greek

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